Characteristics of good gaoshan?

[Rickpatbrown]

I received 4 test samples from a tea vendor/friend from southern Taiwan. Obviously, it's difficult to tell someone what you like when you can't taste the tea, so she sent me a 0.40, 0.60, 0.70 and 0.80 price sample. It's been interesting and educational comparing the different grade teas.

I started with the 0.7 grade, and thought it was a really nice tea. There was good body and a strong hui gan with a good buttery aroma that I associate with the high mountain oolong. This tea seemed to steep forever. I'd get 7 or 8 steeps out of it (point of reference ... I use a ton of leaf in my gaiwan -10g/150mL)

Next, I tried the 0.8 grade. It wasn't quite as strong as the 0.7, but it seemed more balanced. The buttery note wasn't as overwhelming. This provided a more delicate and sophisticated profile that was a bit more worthy of contemplative sessions. I've only had 2 sessions, though so far. So I'm not as familiar as the first one.

Now, I'm on to the lower grade 0.4 and finding the buttery note dominates the tea. It's hard to parse out the other notes, because of it.

There is also the way the teas make me feel, but this is harder to nail down. I've only gotten familiar with the first one I opened (dozens of sessions). It really depends on so many factors, that I hesitate to ascribe a certain feeling to a tea. They all make me happy, soooo that's good

Is this typical of assessing different grades? I'm not great at picking out individual tasting notes. Mostly I can only tell the broader strokes a tea hits.

[Bok]

I would say for Taiwanese tea you often get what you pay for it, more expensive > better. Until a certain price level, high to premium where the better increases little while the price does a lot. So I normally go for as high as I can afford. I only buy different kinds if they are sufficiently different.

As you have samples from the same vendor, it will be straightforward in regards to prices. More money, better tea.

Good quality tea will hold up when you push it, so try long steeping time, longer than what you would normally do and see how it turns out. Bad and good qualities will be apparent.

[d.manuk]

Good quality gaoshan has "bright" notes that linger on the tip of my tongue. Lower quality tends to have one note and doesn't "pop."

I pretty much only drink the most expensive gaoshan I can find in the West so if I drink something of lower quality its really apparent.

[Bok]

Good quality gaoshan has "bright" notes that linger on the tip of my tongue. Lower quality tends to have one note and doesn't "pop."

Interesting, also for winter harvest? Bright notes I would usually associate with Spring harvest only. Winter has more creaminess covering the throat (at least in my perception). Lower quality gaoshan usually isn't gaoshan

[Rickpatbrown]

Good quality gaoshan has "bright" notes that linger on the tip of my tongue. Lower quality tends to have one note and doesn't "pop."

Interesting, also for winter harvest? Bright notes I would usually associate with Spring harvest only. Winter has more creaminess covering the throat (at least in my perception). Lower quality gaoshan usually isn't gaoshan

I will say these teas are very much stronger in the creamy, buttery category than the 2018 spring tea I had. When I say butter, I really mean it tastes like butter. It is quite strong in these teas. I don't think I would describe these bright, as far a my taste buds say. Maybe just a bit of citrus, especially right after a quick rinse. Definitely not as flowery as some other high mountain I've had.

Maybe this balanced character I am talking about connects with your comment to push them harder. If everything is coming out equally (no one flavor is dominating), longer steeping can maintain balance, but open up a lot more at once. I will certainly try this.

I was told that spring tea is coming in next week. I'll have a shipment of tea from the same vendor. This will be my first time trying winter and spring tea, back to back from the same source. I'm looking forward to experiencing the difference.

[Bok]

Maybe this balanced character I am talking about connects with your comment to push them harder. If everything is coming out equally (no one flavor is dominating), longer steeping can maintain balance, but open up a lot more at once. I will certainly try this.

Ideally use two identical porcelain mugs or gaiwan for the most neutral comparison. About 3 grams, let infuse 5 min or longer, see what you can taste. Can be deceiving though as some of the throat coating of high mountain tends to linger on, so will influence the next tea that you sample... Maybe even neutralise your mouth with water as good as possible for best results.

Pro-tasters also do not sip, but slurp the tea in with lots of air and then sort of gargle inside the mouth. No need to spit it out as with wine though!

[gatmcm]

Pro-tasters also do not sip, but slurp the tea in with lots of air and then sort of gargle inside the mouth. No need to spit it out as with wine though!

This is a point I always found somewhat odd because in my own anecdotal experience slurping and over aerating tea in the mouth gives a sort of flatness and sharpness vs just sipping holding it for a bit and swallowing. Have to admit my palate is not the best and I do not enjoy putting myself in the mindset of a reviewer when drinking tea, so my findings are not scientific or A/B tested or anything, just something i've come to notice.

[d.manuk]

Good quality gaoshan has "bright" notes that linger on the tip of my tongue. Lower quality tends to have one note and doesn't "pop."

Interesting, also for winter harvest? Bright notes I would usually associate with Spring harvest only. Winter has more creaminess covering the throat (at least in my perception). Lower quality gaoshan usually isn't gaoshan

For Spring. I have limited experience with Winter harvest.

[chofmann]

I was told that spring tea is coming in next week. I'll have a shipment of tea from the same vendor.

Bok and others can correct me if I'm wrong... but spring tea being released in the first week of April seems very early for gaoshan. I never want to say never, but typically I would expect picking to begin in mid-April to mid-May, depending on how high the elevation is. And then of course there is the processing time as well.

[Tillerman]

Here is my 2 cents worth - I'll refer to various comments throughout:

1. @Rickpatbrown when you ask about "gaoshan" I assume you mean the low oxidized, unroasted style that is most common. There are other (and dare I say, more enjoyable) styles that have a higher level of oxidation and some roasting. Be that as it may, good gaoshan of any style has a richness of character that is unique. Your finding "buttery" notes is generally an indicator of quality in winter teas (i agree with @Bok ) - unless you have a sinus problem for it can result from that too.

2. @Bok is generally correct that there seems to be a logarithmic curve to the tea price and quality relationship where the increase in quality move up with the price until you get to the highest levels and the the price moves much more rapidly than the quality. But there are exceptions - quite a few, in fact, and these are worth seeking out - that's the fun of it really.

3. "Lower quality gaoshan usually isn't gaoshan" - a very good guiding principal from @Bok.

4. @Rickpatbrown The early harvest of true gaoshan tea is still nearly a month off. I'd be very suspicious of anything released next week.

5. @Bok give good advice on "cupping" the tea to assess quality (you really need to do this side by side in the same session.) @gatmcm , the purpose of "slurping" is to completely coat the inside of the mouth and to combine the tea with air which helps with perception of the volatiles. When I do this (but I do NOT claim to be a "pro") I do spit the tea rather than swallow.

6. @Shine Magical your comments on style are accurate, I think but as @Bok notes, for the spring harvest. That said, with climate change, the distinctions between spring and winter teas are becoming less pronounced.

That was way more than 2 cents worth - or more likely not. Advice is cheap @Rickpatbrown, the fun is in exploring and learning to discern quality as you gain experience. And if at all possible, talk to growers and merchants in Taiwan. With that and tasting, you're well on your way.

[Bok]

Bok and others can correct me if I'm wrong... but spring tea being released in the first week of April seems very early for gaoshan. I never want to say never, but typically I would expect picking to begin in mid-April to mid-May, depending on how high the elevation is. And then of course there is the processing time as well.

I do not know if you are wrong for sure, typically you are right - yet if the mangoes are indicator of anything, the first mangoes of the season, the so called Earth mangoes, are already on the markets, although they should not be.

My favourite mango variety and as eagerly expected as the winter tea harvest

Have not talked to my trusted suppliers yet about the spring harvest, so I can not confirm if there was an earlier harvest than usual.

[Bok]

2. Bok is generally correct that there seems to be a logarithmic curve to the tea price and quality relationship where the increase in quality move up with the price until you get to the highest levels and the the price moves much more rapidly than the quality. But there are exceptions - quite a few, in fact, and these are worth seeking out - that's the fun of it really.

Yes, that is where it gets complicated
Those little unrecognised diamonds is what we are striving to find...

Sometimes simply because the fashion of the day commands a certain flavour profile which makes some teas increase in price, yet they are just different, not better, than others.

See for example the in my eyes much over-cherished greenish Baozhong...

[d.manuk]

2. Bok is generally correct that there seems to be a logarithmic curve to the tea price and quality relationship where the increase in quality move up with the price until you get to the highest levels and the the price moves much more rapidly than the quality. But there are exceptions - quite a few, in fact, and these are worth seeking out - that's the fun of it really.

Yes, that is where it gets complicated
Those little unrecognised diamonds is what we are striving to find...

Sometimes simply because the fashion of the day commands a certain flavour profile which makes some teas increase in price, yet they are just different, not better, than others.

See for example the in my eyes much over-cherished greenish Baozhong...

This past year I've been mainly drinking a $0.50/g semi wild Baozhong because it was the most floral and best tasting green Taiwanese oolong I was able to obtain. It also had all of the characteristics of a high quality Spring gaoshan that I mentioned earlier, just with slightly darker tones. It was also less expensive, since gaoshan would be $1/g.

I can't wait for the 2019 season to start... I'm so tired of drinking sheng.

[chofmann]

Here is my 2 cents worth - I'll refer to various comments throughout:

1. Rickpatbrown when you ask about "gaoshan" I assume you mean the low oxidized, unroasted style that is most common. There are other (and dare I say, more enjoyable) styles that have a higher level of oxidation and some roasting. Be that as it may, good gaoshan of any style has a richness of character that is unique. Your finding "buttery" notes is generally an indicator of quality in winter teas (i agree with Bok ) - unless you have a sinus problem for it can result from that too.

2. Bok is generally correct that there seems to be a logarithmic curve to the tea price and quality relationship where the increase in quality move up with the price until you get to the highest levels and the the price moves much more rapidly than the quality. But there are exceptions - quite a few, in fact, and these are worth seeking out - that's the fun of it really.

3. "Lower quality gaoshan usually isn't gaoshan" - a very good guiding principal from Bok.

4. Rickpatbrown The early harvest of true gaoshan tea is still nearly a month off. I'd be very suspicious of anything released next week.

5. Bok give good advice on "cupping" the tea to assess quality (you really need to do this side by side in the same session.) gatmcm , the purpose of "slurping" is to completely coat the inside of the mouth and to combine the tea with air which helps with perception of the volatiles. When I do this (but I do NOT claim to be a "pro") I do spit the tea rather than swallow.

6. Shine Magical your comments on style are accurate, I think but as Bok notes, for the spring harvest. That said, with climate change, the distinctions between spring and winter teas are becoming less pronounced.

That was way more than 2 cents worth - or more likely not. Advice is cheap Rickpatbrown, the fun is in exploring and learning to discern quality as you gain experience. And if at all possible, talk to growers and merchants in Taiwan. With that and tasting, you're well on your way.

This is a fantastic summary / confirmation of what everybody was saying. Well done Tillerman.

[Ethan Kurland]

See for example the in my eyes much over-cherished greenish Baozhong...

This past year I've been mainly drinking a $0.50/g semi wild Baozhong because it was the most floral and best tasting green Taiwanese oolong I was able to obtain. It also had all of the characteristics of a high quality Spring gaoshan that I mentioned earlier, just with slightly darker tones. It was also less expensive, since gaoshan would be $1/g.

I can't wait for the 2019 season to start... I'm so tired of drinking sheng.
[/quote]

Yes, like Bok, I can wonder why people pay a lot for a tea that has so often been nothing special and never one of the best teas that I have tasted (Boazhong); then, someone one trusts is thrilled ......

While people look to Spring 2019, I'll remind them that last Winter teas were much better than usual (not only my opinion); so, you might get more of the Winter teas known to be excellent if they are available. Spring 2019 may be very good without being as good..... want to bet?

Mostly want to say thank you for wisdom shared here. Cheers