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thanks for reporting back. i think that looks alright. i would be pretty happy with that. especially for a first try.

i usually apply epoxy with the tip of a toothpick.


either the knob wasn't aligned perfectly or a piece of the edge was just broken off. either way, the interface isn't perfect (at least in the pic) judging by how the light catches it. did the knob snap into place? it's really hard when broken pieces don't come together all on their own (common with a flat break without deep nooks that mate accurately). that's why i stress the importance of doing a ton of dry fits before gluing and using your fingerail to feel all around the break. or feeling with a toothpick or some kind of probe if your finger doesn't fit in there.

it also doesn't help that adding material (glue) changes the fit up slightly.

i'm sure it's less noticeable in person.

anyway, i think it does look good. congrats.

Nice job @kekstee. Curious, any reason you didn’t use JB-Weld ClearWeld Quick Setting Epoxy? After being fully cured, it is completely resistant to water, and can withstand a ‘constant’ temperature of 500º F. I just find it easier to use because it’s clear and is very strong at 3900 PSI. Just curious, always willing to try something new.

@pedant The picture is probably the "best" possible light to show the slight gap there. I did test fits but this is what it came down to when the epoxy was in. Either it hooked like one grain off the proper alignment or the epoxy added just a little bit of height to make the section where it didn't squish out catch the light. The snapped surface was just 6-8mm in diameter, a wooden toothpick would have been on the large side to apply the epoxy. I could have done better but the macro shots definitely make it look worse than it is in person.

@Victoria I'd say the Clear Weld is the safer way to go for sure. I did test this stuff and decided the dried colour is a safe enough bet for this Benshan Lüni.

Facing the same problem, but entirely because of my stupidity. I was irritated that the breather hole atop the lid was misaligned, and had the brilliant idea to use my watch strap changing tool to file away the hole. It got stuck, and I used a different tool to knock it out. The breathing hole is finally aligned, but the knob also came right off. The break isn't clean since tiny bits of clay came off with it enough to be visible holes, and the repair will definitely be unsightly, but I guess Im glad the lid didn't shatter
Seems that the consensus that JB Weld is the way to go. So something like this(https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-ClearWe ... 07D1NX76J/), but no sealant needed right?

I'm thinking maybe just epoxying the highlighted part to reduce exposure to epoxy would be best? Really sad, this was my nicest pot. Not that I was planning to sell it so resale value isn't a big deal, but still sad

m2193 wrote: ↑

Tue May 16, 2023 2:48 pm

Seems that the consensus that JB Weld is the way to go. So something like this(https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-ClearWe ... 07D1NX76J/), but no sealant needed right?

It will work, but personally I have a very low opinion on this JB Weld Clear 5 min epoxy.

m2193 wrote: ↑

Tue May 16, 2023 3:05 pm

I'm thinking maybe just epoxying the highlighted part to reduce exposure to epoxy would be best?

You need to go all around if you want it to hold well.

.m. wrote: ↑

Tue May 16, 2023 3:16 pm

m2193 wrote: ↑

Tue May 16, 2023 2:48 pm

Seems that the consensus that JB Weld is the way to go. So something like this(https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-ClearWe ... 07D1NX76J/), but no sealant needed right?

It will work, but personally I have a very low opinion on this JB Weld Clear 5 min epoxy.

What would you suggest instead?

So maybe all around the outer rim plus the highlighted part might work better

I would go with some clear slow setting epoxy (not 5 min). Devcon 2 ton epoxy has some good reviews, but I haven't used it yet.
Lakeside pottery have some suggestions, but again I haven't tried any of those:
https://www.lakesidepottery.com/Pages/w ... plies.html
What I've tried: Gorilla 5 min clear epoxy: hated it, JB Weld 5 min clear epoxy: hated it, Loctite Fixmaster 5 min clear epoxy: ok, JB Weld Original Cold Weld: awesome but cures grey.

Good quality CA glue could also work, but wouldn't go there since most common CA glues will degrade and unglue when boiled in a water (prolonged exposure to a humidity and a temperature above 200F), so you'd be in a risky area.