"Competition Grade" tea from Taiwan

[Tillerman]

This month Tillerman opines on "competition grade" tea and also takes a look at the procedures employed by the Lugu Farmer's Association for their competition. https://tillermantea.net/2019/01/competition/

[chofmann]

Great post Tillerman. Another aspect that I've often wondered about is the subjectivity of competition teas. In order to properly grade the flavor, my understanding is that each tea's flavor isn't graded simply based on how much it is "enjoyed", but also on how much it tastes the way that the specific tea is supposed to taste. However, this opens up a second layer of subjectivity - who defines what a dong ding or baozhong or oriental beauty is supposed to taste like? And is it good for the industry if farmers are trying to make their teas taste specifically like this description as opposed to being a bit more experimental around the specific flavor profile?

[debunix]

this opens up a second layer of subjectivity - who defines what a dong ding or baozhong or oriental beauty is supposed to taste like?

This is a very important point....not specifically with regards to Taiwanese oolongs, but perhaps in general. A few years ago I experimented with small quantities of several grades of Long Jing from several different sources, and I realized that the tea I liked best was consistently not the one that was considered best (or most expensive) from those sources, but the tea described as one or two grades *below* the best. One of the qualities that seemed to be stronger in the more prized teas was a toasty nuttiness that to me was a detraction rather than an enchancement of the other qualities of the tea.

On the whole I think there are many qualities we can point to as objectively better between fine and mediocre teas, but when you're distinguishing between fine and ultra fine teas, I think that subjectivity comes in again, and it's not always clear that the premium price of the 'ultimate' tea would be worth it even if I could get it.

[Tillerman]

this opens up a second layer of subjectivity - who defines what a dong ding or baozhong or oriental beauty is supposed to taste like?

This is a very important point....not specifically with regards to Taiwanese oolongs, but perhaps in general. A few years ago I experimented with small quantities of several grades of Long Jing from several different sources, and I realized that the tea I liked best was consistently not the one that was considered best (or most expensive) from those sources, but the tea described as one or two grades *below* the best. One of the qualities that seemed to be stronger in the more prized teas was a toasty nuttiness that to me was a detraction rather than an enchancement of the other qualities of the tea.

On the whole I think there are many qualities we can point to as objectively better between fine and mediocre teas, but when you're distinguishing between fine and ultra fine teas, I think that subjectivity comes in again, and it's not always clear that the premium price of the 'ultimate' tea would be worth it even if I could get it.

It is significant, I think, that since the beginning of the competitions in Taiwan there has been a tendency to adapt production to the styles of tea that are favored by the competition judges. This, perhaps, can be most clearly seen in Bao Zhong where the evolution in style has been very marked. In other words, there is less variation in style of given tea types than previously was the case.

That said, I think it also is fair to say that the competition winners are teas that are nuanced, not necessarily ones with the most pronounced flavors. I recently carried a (very expensive) 2013 Lalashan among my offerings. It was precisely that - refined and nuanced. The flavour was not "powerful" in the sense that most in America look for and I had more than one comment from those who couldn't comprehend what was special about it.

[chofmann]

this opens up a second layer of subjectivity - who defines what a dong ding or baozhong or oriental beauty is supposed to taste like?

This is a very important point....not specifically with regards to Taiwanese oolongs, but perhaps in general. A few years ago I experimented with small quantities of several grades of Long Jing from several different sources, and I realized that the tea I liked best was consistently not the one that was considered best (or most expensive) from those sources, but the tea described as one or two grades *below* the best. One of the qualities that seemed to be stronger in the more prized teas was a toasty nuttiness that to me was a detraction rather than an enchancement of the other qualities of the tea.

On the whole I think there are many qualities we can point to as objectively better between fine and mediocre teas, but when you're distinguishing between fine and ultra fine teas, I think that subjectivity comes in again, and it's not always clear that the premium price of the 'ultimate' tea would be worth it even if I could get it.

I had a very similar experience to this with Mao Feng. One of the farmers we met up with was practically trying to convince us NOT to buy his grade 1 Mao Feng because even he admitted that it is way more expensive and simply isn't worth it for the flavor alone. He described purely as "gift" tea - the price / grade was due to the way the leaves looked, not tasted. Yet, this is the (type of) tea that wins competitions, not something a bit uglier that tastes better.

I think this is a large flaw in the overall competition process... perhaps it is because 'flavor' only accounts for 40% of the grade typically... it should be closer to 70-80%.

[Bok]

Adding another kind of competition tea: teas that are produced in the way a competition demands, like grade of oxidation, appearance etc. One of my sources marks some teas as competition purely for the style of tea they are, it because they were entered in one and openly communicates this.

So basically competition grade tea.

[Tillerman]

Adding another kind of competition tea: teas that are produced in the way a competition demands, like grade of oxidation, appearance etc. One of my sources marks some teas as competition purely for the style of tea they are, it because they were entered in one and openly communicates this.

So basically competition grade tea.

Bok, by that logic, all "green" gaoshan would be considered competition teas for this is what the standards of the competition demand.

The Lugu Farmer's Association receives over 6000 entries per competition, half of which are immediately eliminated as not being up to standard. Using the term "competition grade" is meaningless as it can be, ond often is, applied to any sort of tea whatsoever.

[Bok]

true.

The guy I am talking about uses that term for his medium oxidised, lightly roasted teas, not the high mountain greenish oolongs.

Anyways, as we have discussed before, terms are used in a confusing and incoherent manner, in Taiwan at least.

[Tillerman]

Anyways, as we have discussed before, terms are used in a confusing and incoherent manner, in Taiwan at least.

Oh so very true!