TeaForum.org

Trusar wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 22, 2019 2:32 pm

.m. wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 21, 2019 4:43 pm

It looks good. An important thing is that the epoxy gets cured well. Seems that in general with epoxy higher curing temperature (up to about 150C) tends to produce better result than room temperature curing.

So do i have to do this for 24 hours ? or just an hour?

Cure rate depends on temperature; at 25c (77F) 24hrs, at 65C (149F) 1-4hrs. I recommend some trial runs on other objects first, to get the hang of the epoxy. Also, I’ve found using a slightly damp q-tip helps to carefully remove excess epoxy before it sets.

Trusar wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 22, 2019 2:39 pm

.....
I thought j b weld is not food safe?

From the look of your broken piece, almost no contact will be occurring between the repaired chipped off piece and hot tea. Even if it was in contact, the epoxy should be inside the crack and very tight with almost no exposure. In my opinion the exposure is so minimal that it’s not a concern. The J-B Weld thread discusses this also. Was looking for your introduction and didn’t find one, curious where you are located?

Victoria wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 22, 2019 3:04 pm

Trusar wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 22, 2019 2:39 pm

.....
I thought j b weld is not food safe?

From the look of your broken piece, almost no contact will be occurring between the repaired chipped off piece and hot tea. Even if it was in contact, the epoxy should be inside the crack and very tight with almost no exposure. In my opinion the exposure is so minimal that it’s not a concern. The J-B Weld thread discusses this also. Was looking for your introduction and didn’t find one, curious where you are located?

hi

i saw a couple of discussions on this forum for JB weld. some people said it was good at heat and water resistance and other said it was poison.
I am in London UK. I am impulse buyer and for some reason I seem to have my eyes on 1 silver and 1copper teapot now. I also need at least one of every type of clay teapot as well.

oh i see the intro thing victioria put up. will do it tomorow.

Unsubscribing to this thread.

Must be something in the air. I dropped my 40ml hong ni teapot in the sink a few days ago, broke the handle off. Hope you can repair the chip.

oolongfan wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 22, 2019 9:05 pm

Must be something in the air. I dropped my 40ml hong ni teapot in the sink a few days ago, broke the handle off. Hope you can repair the chip.

In that case JB weld should be an easy and good fix! Some antiques I saw do add some metal around on top for extra stability, can even look nice, depending on how it is done!

Trusar wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 22, 2019 2:32 pm

.m. wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 21, 2019 4:43 pm

It looks good. An important thing is that the epoxy gets cured well. Seems that in general with epoxy higher curing temperature (up to about 150C) tends to produce better result than room temperature curing.

So do i have to do this for 24 hours ? or just an hour?

According to their data sheet the curing time is 24hrs in room temperature 25C, and 4hrs at 65C, which is pretty standard for epoxy. Personally i'd let it rest for at least a couple of days or weeks before using it, given that it will get hot etc... I my understanding the higher curing temperature should lead to better heat resistance and overall better curing. Around mid of the curing time the glue should be hard enough, but not completely hardened yet, so that you can very carefully cut off with a sharp blade all the glue that seeps out of the seems (you can do it later too, but it is perhaps a bit easier before it is completely hard). Cutting of the extra glue when hardened enough is often preferable to trying to clean it up when still wet which usually leads to smearing it all over the surface and would require the use of a chemical thinner such as acetone to clean it off effectively, which is another option. While the glueing surface needs obviously to be completely oil free and clean, leaving the rest a bit greasy might be an advantage if you happen to need to clean the glue of it: just let it dry and pop off the dried glue with a blade. Good luck!

Trusar wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 22, 2019 4:29 pm

i saw a couple of discussions on this forum for JB weld. some people said it was good at heat and water resistance and other said it was poison.

It may be both Food safe means that the potential poison levels are under a certain threshold.

do i need a two part epoxy or just single part?

do i need the hardner or is just resin good?

Two part epoxy is best.

ok i ordered one fro amazon. the shipping was a lot cheaper. 11 GBP on amazon for shipping and over 50 on their own website.

i got: AAbond FDA15

the adhesive strength was 2100.

having looked it is not as high as jb weld psi (not sure if tinsel strength and adhesive bod strength is the same thing). jb weld is 3960 psi tinsel strength and the above is 2100 psi adhesive strength.

also found:

Idealseal Foodfix Crystal Clear Food Grade Sealant and Adhesive 290ml

a food grade sealant and adhesive

I found a you tube video with a boy showing us how to make epoxy. He heated up pine and spruce resin and mix charcoal to it. He said to use it just heat it up and it will go from solid to runny , and it can make things water proof.
So Im not sure if boiling water would affect it or not