Chipped my F1 hongni

Trusar
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Sun Apr 21, 2019 7:58 am

I dropped my F1 hongni from EOT.
Should I pay someone to do kintsugi on it? Or should I do it myself? Or what should I do?
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Bok
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Sun Apr 21, 2019 8:04 am

Depends how dear it is to you... those pots are not hugely valuable, so if, I’d rather have a go at Kintsugi myself (it’s not easy and for the impatient or clumsy). See my post in the Repair DIY show off thread.

A chip is usually also not the end of the world, depending how big it is. Chipped away parts are relatively easy to Kintsugi, as opposed to breaks or large missing pieces.
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OCTO
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Sun Apr 21, 2019 10:41 am

Trusar wrote:
Sun Apr 21, 2019 7:58 am
I dropped my F1 hongni from EOT.
Should I pay someone to do kintsugi on it? Or should I do it myself? Or what should I do?
Get a new one. Plenty of F1 HongNi pot around.
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Sun Apr 21, 2019 2:52 pm

DIY. Not worth a professional $200 repair unless it’s 60-70’s.
.m.
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Sun Apr 21, 2019 3:31 pm

Depends on many things. How valuable is the pot? How much is the chip affecting its function? Do you have the chipped off piece and can it be glued back? Do you feel confident doing it yourself / be ok with potentially screwing it up?
Filling up with a kintsugi a chipped off spot on the lid or the rim would be likely quite straightforward, while on a thin spout (are we talking white label shuiping?) it might be quite tricky. Also the price of a small kintsugi kit might be like a half that of the pot...
A chipped spout can be filed, or a replacement spout end made (pewter would be a cheap material to use, followed by silver).
Trusar
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Sun Apr 21, 2019 4:05 pm

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Trusar
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Sun Apr 21, 2019 4:05 pm

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Reason: Mod edit: cleaned up attachment
Trusar
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Sun Apr 21, 2019 4:10 pm

ive found this food grade epoxy, and i think it can take up to 145 degrees, but please can someone double check, it says operating temp from -70 cel to 145 cel. is operating temp the temp it can take when applied?

https://www.atomadhesives.com/FDA-Grade ... dical-Food
.m.
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Sun Apr 21, 2019 4:43 pm

It looks good. An important thing is that the epoxy gets cured well. Seems that in general with epoxy higher curing temperature (up to about 150C) tends to produce better result than room temperature curing. Also it is important to mix the 2 parts well: with the smallest 2.5g pouch i'd be worried of not getting all the glue out of the pouch and not getting the right ratio between the two parts.

Talking about kintsugi, they make a silver and a gold epoxy :lol:
https://www.atomadhesives.com/AA-BOND-F ... -Oxidating
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Victoria
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Sun Apr 21, 2019 4:59 pm

Yes, looks like that expoxy can take 145c, much hotter than any tea will need.

Your pot is really nice and worth repairing, I love that compact shape with Yù lì 玉笠 (rain hat). I have a similar one by Liu Xiu Di in zini clay. If you have all the pieces that broke off -I’ve successfully used J-B Weld ‘Clear Weld’ on lids and cups. If there is a piece missing I’d use kintsugi technique using urushi with gold or silver.

Also, I’m moving this thread to Teaware/ Miscellaneous. You might look at this pinned thread there; viewtopic.php?f=26&t=657
And this JB Weld topic; viewtopic.php?f=26&t=93
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Baisao
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Sun Apr 21, 2019 10:06 pm

All of the above.

Something that has not been mentioned is the thought that when something is broken it can no longer be made whole in spirit and is retired.

I am a suiseki collector and if our stones are cut to fit a profile or broken they are no longer considered complete. It is as though the spirit has been lost from the stone.

(Certainly the market is flooded with cut stones that people buy but to a purist the above holds true)

Related to this, there’s some thought that items repaired with traditional kintsugi bonder (urushiol) were never supposed to be put back into use but honored with a beautiful repair and retired from service. I think this notion is based in equal parts on the food safety of urushiol and the spirit of a piece of pottery.

I am sure the Chinese have a different take on gongshi cutting and pottery repair.
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Victoria
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Sun Apr 21, 2019 11:06 pm

Baisao wrote:
Sun Apr 21, 2019 10:06 pm
......
Something that has not been mentioned is the thought that when something is broken it can no longer be made whole in spirit and is retired.
I think your are onto something here. Maybe a successfully or artfully repaired piece should be given to someone with no painful memory of having broken the piece. I J-B welded my favorite late 19th C porcelain cup over one or two years ago, looks like it did when I first got it, but I have not used it since repairing. In the back of my mind I keep thinking I’m just letting it cure longer, but really I’m still upset I broke it while drying. Parallel to these feelings are aesthetic philosophies that I also value but have not yet mastered; Wabi-sabi embracing the imperfect, impermanence, and the incomplete; Kintsugi considers something broken and repaired as a part of the history of an object to be highlighted in gold.

Another thing with broken lids, sharing a lid from another pot is a nice way to go. I’ve been using a Shimizu Ken lid on a Hokujo pot and I really like the way it functions and looks. But I will still eventually finish repairing the Hokujo lid even so.
Trusar
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Mon Apr 22, 2019 2:28 pm

Also it is important to mix the 2 parts well: with the smallest 2.5g pouch i'd be worried of not getting all the glue out of the pouch and not getting the right ratio between the two parts.

Talking about kintsugi, they make a silver and a gold epoxy :lol:
https://www.atomadhesives.com/AA-BOND-F ... -Oxidating



even with the chip, the pot doesn't leak. Its a small chip, so wont need much epoxy at all.
ill do the best i can, im sure a very small amount should make much difference the blend.
Not sure if the silver and gold one above is food safe
Trusar
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Mon Apr 22, 2019 2:32 pm

.m. wrote:
Sun Apr 21, 2019 4:43 pm
It looks good. An important thing is that the epoxy gets cured well. Seems that in general with epoxy higher curing temperature (up to about 150C) tends to produce better result than room temperature curing.
So do i have to do this for 24 hours ? or just an hour?
Trusar
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Mon Apr 22, 2019 2:39 pm

Victoria wrote:
Sun Apr 21, 2019 4:59 pm
Yes, looks like that expoxy can take 145c, much hotter than any tea will need.

Your pot is really nice and worth repairing, I love that compact shape with Yù lì 玉笠 (rain hat). I have a similar one by Liu Xiu Di in zini clay. If you have all the pieces that broke off -I’ve successfully used J-B Weld ‘Clear Weld’ on lids and cups. If there is a piece missing I’d use kintsugi technique using urushi with gold or silver.

Also, I’m moving this thread to Teaware/ Miscellaneous. You might look at this pinned thread there; viewtopic.php?f=26&t=657
And this JB Weld topic; viewtopic.php?f=26&t=93
thanks. im hoping it will appreciate in value. will keep it till i depart. the same with all my teapots.
Yes i have the main peace. the rest are too small and i never found them, but they were milli ml small.
I thought j b weld is not food safe?
I will eposxy the peace first. then in the future i might mix something with gold, silver or makka powder and fill the outside. just for observation beauty
but it doesn't leak even without the chip.
other lids are a good idea, but that i will prefer the fix the original lid first and will get another lid only if i damage the lid further.
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