steanze wrote: ↑Mon Dec 03, 2018 7:01 pm
Trusar wrote: ↑Mon Dec 03, 2018 3:46 pm
ok according to YS website:
- "this clay contains very high amount of iron oxide"
- "The finer the clay used the more sheen the pot has"
- "The clay is highly porous but without allowing water to escape or soak in deeply. "
you said your teapot, sweats out the water from the inside to the outside. so far this is the best description for a fully porous clay pot. half porous would probably just be muting without sweating because is gets absorbed from the inside but doesn't quite get as far as the outside.
According to YS the water doesn't soak in deeply or escape (dont know what they mean by escape). so then how is exactly is it highly porous? (if you know). if anything there saying its highly porous, but giving a reason as to why its not highly porous.
maybe the iron oxide somehow plays a factor.
the YS pot i have does not sweat or mute. the most it does is have react with some teas.
If someone has a large western-facing store, it does not mean s/he is an expert on everything s/he sells. This statement: "The finer the clay used the more sheen the pot has" is incorrect (maybe there was more context that has been cut). I have coarse clay pots that pick up more sheen than finer clay pots. The development of patina does not depend only on the clay's grain. I think it is a good strategy to evaluate how expert a source is before going with what they say. For example, you can ask: 1) does this person show evidence of being able to authenticate old pots (F1 and earlier)? 2) does this person have antique teapots? (not necessary, but usually having them requires knowing a thing or two and it means they have had the opportunity to study them), 3) has this person published work on yixing teapots, or is s/he recognized in the community as a knowledgeable person on the topic? These are much better indicators for a person you want to learn from than owning a large store.
For example Dr Lv, Kyarazen, Teaism, OCTO, are people who know a lot. And Baisao, Bok, Chadrinkincat also know things and are careful in their evaluations. (and I'm sure there are a lot of other people that aren't coming to mind right now).
no that was the entire line, maybe they are referring to just CZ clay rather than all clay types.
heres the whole paragraph:
"Feng Xi area near Chaozhou (in Guangdong) is where the clay is mined. It's a mountainous area and the clay mined there is very fine and is easy to work when it's mixed with water. Typically the clay is worked on a wheel. Chaozhou Hong Ni after firing takes on a deep red-orange color and a natural sheen. The finer the clay used the more sheen the pot has. The clay has a very high level of iron oxide, it's very pliable and after firing contracts about 15%. Firing temperatures used in the local kilns are close to 1000 celsius."
You said your corse pot had picked up a sheen, does that mean when it was unused it did not have a sheen?
I have a coarse zini, and it has the same/similar sheen to the CZ i have. The only difference is i had season the outside of the zini, but the CZ was like that when i got it.
teahabitat actually as a pot made by the same maker, zhang lin hao, and the teapot was available at YS but is now sold out. on Teahabitat it says to use it for sheng and be prepared to be surprised. i might try this. if it somehow takes the astringency away then......
how do i unseason a teapot? if i try it with sheng ill need to remove all the sheng out of the pores in the teapot just incase it doesnt work out, and i dont want to keep mixing teas in it just in case.
thanks