Yixing

Chadrinkincat
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Sun Sep 19, 2021 2:05 pm

I recently acquired this little beauty. It is a good example of a 60’s pot w/ “hide line” on seal. From my understanding this is caused by use of a worn out stamp seal.

As discussed here. https://m.facebook.com/groups/teapot2/p ... 664345565/
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Bok
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Sun Sep 19, 2021 7:55 pm

@Chadrinkincat nice pot!
Andrew S
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Sun Sep 19, 2021 8:55 pm

@Chadrinkincat: are we going to get to see some gold on that lid soon, or is it still holding together for now?

And, if you pardon my ignorance, could you please clarify what the 'hide line' is meant to be?

It feels like one of those spot the difference games, comparing it to my only 60s pot, and I'm not doing too well...

Andrew
Andrew S
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Sun Sep 19, 2021 8:59 pm

(I should perhaps add that I don't have Facebook these days, and can't see what's in the link, so it is not just pure laziness in this case...)

Andrew
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steanze
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Sun Sep 19, 2021 9:37 pm

Balthazar wrote:
Sat Sep 18, 2021 2:23 pm
steanze wrote:
Sat Sep 18, 2021 11:35 am
Thanks for the pictures! The color does look very different from the previous pics to these. It almost looks like hong qingshuini in these pics. I won't use color to evaluate (for that one would need a picture with natural light, or using a card to get the right white balance), the texture looks finer than usual 70s qingshuini, it looks like a different clay or at least processed in a different way...
Thanks again, steanze! Yes, the light in these pics made it come off as quite red.

I did take another photo, this time using a white object (in lieu of suitable cards) for spot setting the white balance in post-production. I think this is as close as I'm gonna get to capture its "real" color.

In any case, beyond words and classification I look forward to getting to know more about how it interact with the teas I brew. A couple sessions in and so far it's promising :)


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Nice photo! The clay looks good. I think it's a batch of early 80s zini that was often used at that time for those xian piao shaped pots.
Chadrinkincat
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Sun Sep 19, 2021 10:14 pm

Andrew S wrote:
Sun Sep 19, 2021 8:55 pm
Chadrinkincat: are we going to get to see some gold on that lid soon, or is it still holding together for now?

And, if you pardon my ignorance, could you please clarify what the 'hide line' is meant to be?

It feels like one of those spot the difference games, comparing it to my only 60s pot, and I'm not doing too well...

Andrew
It is currently holding together. I’ll likely get staples added.



This is taken from the FB page I link. Written by Dr. Lu (author of F1 book). My pot is an example of number 2.

“早期壺入門之十七:認識60年代的五種「大溪」款

(2016/1/28新增第五個「大溪」款)

在開始之前,再次重申,「款」是斷壺五要件之一,不能不懂,但不是唯一,一定要「土工型款窯」五要件都正確才是開門的壺。印章蓋在泥和蓋在紙上面是不同的,蓋在泥上時會受到泥的濕度、蓋的力道大小而有影響,表現與蓋在紙上是有所不同的,因此在對印款時一定要考慮這些影響。
坊間對「大溪」款有許多錯誤的傳言,其實「大溪」款是60年代各款中種類最多的,目前個人整理出來至少有以下四種。四種都肯定是取自百分之百開門的60年代壺品,因為照片數量太多,各壺只貼正面照一張,若對個別細部有興趣的壺友,可傳訊息給我,弟可提供完整細部照片供比對,無庸置疑。

為了說明起見,小弟對這四個款均分別加以命名,並提供「一眼辨識要點」供大家參考,畢竟實品看壺不像在電腦上一樣可以放大數十倍來比對啊。
1.「1號款」:是最常見的,一眼辨識重點有二:一是在「孟」字紅圈處是「相連」的。二是在「製」字中間有一條「暗線」。有關暗線的說明在「早期壺入門之十四」已說過,在此不贅述。但要注意,這暗線有些明顯,有些不明顯,有些甚至可能看不出來,這和用印時期,及土胚乾濕及力道都有很大關係,不可矯枉過正。
2.「2號款」:是另一個「暗線」比較明顯的款。一眼辨識的重點也有二:一是「孟」字紅圈處是分開的,和1號款有很明顯的區別。二是在「惠」字的左側有一條垂直的暗線。
3.「勾溪款」:這個款和1號及2號最大的差別是沒有什麼暗線。一眼辨識的重點是在「惠」字的「心」部兩邊比較勾起來,而且心字中間的型狀和其它款(近三角形)不一樣,比較方形一點,故小弟稱之為「勾溪款」。
4.「點溪款」:這個款很好認,一眼辨識的重點在「溪」字上半部,其它三款都是三隻腳與上面那一橫是相連的,但這個款的第一豎和上面那一橫是不相連的,而是呈一個「橫點」,故小弟稱之為「點溪款」。

以上這四個款都是正確的60年代大溪款,不要把對的當作仿品那就好笑了。如果不放心,小弟是很願意用仿品價收購的。呵呵。

另外我們必須要注意,是否會有第五種,這點也不可百分百說沒有,也有可能還沒有找到吧,還是要回歸到土工型款窯的要件比對上才是。

最後要說明一點,60年代早期壺的印款現在均已遺失,現今後製者均為「復刻」。而80年代之後則不然,綠標之後的印款是有流出的,有壺友之前就有貼過去宜興買回來的「原印」。故80年代之後,許多印款甚至作者都還在,故要用「原款」來蓋印並不是不可能。這點大家在研究印款時必須有所認知才好,切勿矯枉過正。

“---2016/1/28新增第五個「大溪」款如下-----------
這個款其實在我們早期壺事典蒐集資料時也有收到,只是當時的底款沒有拍得很清楚,弟之前特別把它保留起來,今天剛好有壺友提供完整清楚的照片資料,經比對壺的正確性之後,確認無誤,故把它補上來,照片在「回應帖」中,請大家參考。”

The Seventeenth of Early Introduction to Pot

(2016/1/28 added the fifth "Daxi" model)

Before starting, I will reiterate that "style" is one of the five essentials for breaking a pot. It must be understood, but it is not the only one. The pot must be opened if the five essentials of the "geo-type kiln" are correct. The stamp is placed on the mud and the paper is different. When it is placed on the mud, it will be affected by the humidity of the mud and the strength of the lid. The performance is different from that on the paper. Consider these effects.
There are many false rumors about the "Daxi" model in the market. In fact, the "Daxi" model is the most diverse of all models in the 1960s. At present, I have sorted out at least the following four types. All four are definitely taken from pot products in the 60s that are 100% open. Because there are too many photos, only one frontal photo is attached to each pot. If you are interested in individual details, you can send a message to me and my brother can provide the complete picture. There is no doubt that the detailed photos are for comparison.

For the sake of explanation, I named these four models separately, and provided "the key points of identification at a glance" for your reference. After all, the actual product can not be compared with a pot that can be magnified dozens of times like on a computer.
1. "No. 1": It is the most common one. There are two key points of identification at a glance: one is "connected" at the red circle of the word "Meng". The second is that there is a "dark line" in the middle of the word "zhe". The explanation of the dark line has already been mentioned in "The Fourteenth of Early Introduction to Pots", so I won't repeat it here. But be aware that the dark lines are somewhat obvious, some are not obvious, and some may even be invisible. This has a lot to do with the printing period, the dryness and wetness and strength of the soil embryo, and should not be overcorrected.
2. "Model No. 2": It is another model with a more obvious "dark line". At a glance, there are two key points of identification: One is that the red circle of the word "Meng" is separated, which is obviously different from the No. 1 model. The second is that there is a vertical dark line on the left side of the word "Hui".
3. "Gouxi style": The biggest difference between this style and No. 1 and No. 2 is that there is no hidden line. The key point of recognition at a glance is that the two sides of the "Xin" part of the character "Hui" are more hooked, and the shape in the middle of the character "Xin" is different from other styles (near-triangular). ".
4. "Dianxi style": This style is very easy to recognize. The key point of identification at a glance is the upper part of the word "brook". The other three styles have three legs connected to the upper horizontal line, but this style is the first one. The vertical and the upper horizontal are not connected, but a "horizontal point", so the younger brother called it "Dianxi style."

The above four models are all correct Daxi models from the 60s, so it's funny not to treat the right ones as imitations. If you are not at ease, the younger brother is very willing to buy at the imitation price. Ha ha.

In addition, we must pay attention to whether there will be a fifth type. It is not 100% to say that there is no, or it may not have been found. It is still necessary to return to the comparison of the requirements of the geo-type kiln.

Finally, I have to make one point. The printing of the pot in the early 1960s has now been lost, and the current producers are all "reissues." This was not the case after the 1980s. The prints after the green label had flowed out. Before there were pot friends, there were "original prints" bought in Yixing. Therefore, after the 1980s, many prints and even the authors are still there, so it is not impossible to use "original prints" to stamp. Everyone must be aware of this when studying prints, and don't overcorrect.

---2016/1/28 added the fifth "Daxi" paragraph as follows -----------
This model was actually received during our early collection of information on the pot story, but the base at that time was not clearly photographed. My brother specially kept it before. Today, a pot friend just happened to provide a complete and clear photo information. After comparing the pot, After confirming the correctness, please add it. The photo is in the "response post", please refer to it.”
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Andrew S
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Sun Sep 19, 2021 11:43 pm

Thanks very much; now I can see the line in the bottom half quite clearly.

Andrew
Andrew S
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Wed Sep 22, 2021 12:55 am

I figured out how to make an impromptu macro lens by combining two lenses together...

Perhaps mine is an example of the first type, unless I've misunderstood.

Andrew
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Chadrinkincat
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Wed Sep 22, 2021 12:20 pm

Andrew S wrote:
Wed Sep 22, 2021 12:55 am
I figured out how to make an impromptu macro lens by combining two lenses together...

Perhaps mine is an example of the first type, unless I've misunderstood.

Andrew
Image
Yes, #1. Your photo is much clearer than my crappy iPhone pic.
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Chadrinkincat
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Wed Sep 22, 2021 12:36 pm

Bok wrote:
Sun Sep 19, 2021 7:55 pm
Chadrinkincat nice pot!
Thanks!

I’ve used it a couple of times so far w/ puerh. It seems to produce a silkier mouthfeel while being slightly more muting than some of my other pots.
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enjoi
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Tue Oct 05, 2021 10:23 am

Hello Community, I recently aquired a F1 with 60ml from the 70s (for yancha). My second attempt after I returned the first F1 from another vendor with the help of the community (thanks a lot to @Bok @steanze). I think this one is authentic. Please write me your thoughts. Thanks!

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DailyTX
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Tue Oct 05, 2021 4:51 pm

enjoi wrote:
Tue Oct 05, 2021 10:23 am
Hello Community, I recently aquired a F1 with 60ml from the 70s (for yancha). My second attempt after I returned the first F1 from another vendor with the help of the community (thanks a lot to Bok steanze). I think this one is authentic. Please write me your thoughts. Thanks!


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@enjoi
Shui ping is a style of pots I have least exposure, so I couldn’t help with authenticity, but I do like the texture and color of the hongni. Your pot looks familiar :o . I am curious if it’s about 70 ml, from a US vendor, and the spout is slightly slanted towards the left side?

I misread your post. It’s probably not the same pot, since yours is 60 ml, and you are in Australia :lol:
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steanze
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Tue Oct 05, 2021 10:08 pm

enjoi wrote:
Tue Oct 05, 2021 10:23 am
Hello Community, I recently aquired a F1 with 60ml from the 70s (for yancha). My second attempt after I returned the first F1 from another vendor with the help of the community (thanks a lot to Bok steanze). I think this one is authentic. Please write me your thoughts. Thanks!


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It looks nice! I hope you enjoy it :)
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enjoi
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Wed Oct 06, 2021 3:52 am

DailyTX wrote:
Tue Oct 05, 2021 4:51 pm

Shui ping is a style of pots I have least exposure, so I couldn’t help with authenticity, but I do like the texture and color of the hongni. Your pot looks familiar :o . I am curious if it’s about 70 ml, from a US vendor, and the spout is slightly slanted towards the left side?

I misread your post. It’s probably not the same pot, since yours is 60 ml, and you are in Australia :lol:
Thanks for your feedback! Its slightly bigger than 60ml - i measure 65ml. I fill it to the rim, place the lid on and than fill in a measure-cup. Yes the spout is slightly to the left side. I do not got it from the US (from Taiwan). PS: I am from Europe - Austria.

@steanze Thank you :)
GaoShan
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Wed Oct 06, 2021 2:12 pm

How cool do you let your clay pots get between steeps? I recently got a lovely 150 ml Zhuni-Hongni blend teapot from Bok, which I used for the first time a few days ago. The tea was great and I managed not to crack the pot, but in an effort to keep it warm, I ended up drinking more than 1.5 litres of tea in a couple hours and feeling not so great afterwards. My gongfu sessions typically last between three and four hours and use 5-6 g in a 120 ml vessel instead of the 7 g I used for this pot. I know, I'm a baby. :lol:

Would letting the pot cool down to room temperature be a bad move? I don't like the idea of combining steeps, but might have to do that if it's the only way I can get some use out of this pot.

Also, sorry if this is the wrong place for this question.
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