American "Chinese Restaurant" tea blends

Semi-oxidized tea
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mbanu
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Mon Jan 31, 2022 6:27 am

mbanu wrote:
Thu Jan 27, 2022 4:26 am
(Bigelow's Chinese Fortune came out in 1967/1968, as far as I can tell, and chugged along for about 40 years until 2007, when it was replaced by Bigelow's Chinese Oolong -- not sure if it was a re-blend, or if Chinese Fortune had been using Chinese oolongs since the embargo lifted. Today it is just called Bigelow Oolong, dropping the Chinese.)
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I will have to correct my date backwards -- it was sold in 1963 under a different name, Bigelow's Chinese Tea. This is from their Art Linkletter "Buy 3 and See" promotion. A brief mention in the New York Times a year later describes it as, "a blend of Formosa oolong and Keemun black teas" (with the Keemun presumably being Taiwanese Keemun).
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Baisao
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Mon Jan 31, 2022 1:26 pm

@Ethan Kurland, thank you for the kind words and kindred feelings.

Keep up the good work, @mbanu.

I’m going to dip.
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mbanu
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Sat Feb 05, 2022 12:17 pm

mbanu wrote:
Sat Jan 29, 2022 9:31 pm
Were Americans drinking "Chinese Restaurant" blends with sugar? I'm thinking the answer here is no, as they were trying to duplicate the tea they had had at Chinese restaurants to go along with their own home cooking, but I'm not sure on that.
Some Americans were adding sugar, apparently. In 1974 there was a brief review of two new Chinese Restaurant blends from Little Mandarins Foods in New York Magazine.
New York Magazine wrote:...all Purdy cakes are at Macy's where, incidentally, a two-week food festival begins on September 30: a samplers' paradise. All that cake might call for tea, and two new Chinese blends, packaged by Little Mandarins Foods, fill the bill admirably. The better of these is Chinese Restaurant Tea, a combination of black and oolong teas, devised by Emily Kwoh of the Mandarin House, and made up to her order in Hong Kong. Brewed in a pot (not in a teacup as directions suggest), the result is a soothing, aromatic, sweetly scented brew that is even better with a slight touch of sugar (about a quarter teaspoon to cup, for my taste) and some lemon ($1.20 for a four-ounce package). The second blend, Chinese Banquet Tea, is similar, but has an added touch of jasmine blossoms, which makes it a bit overly aromatic for me but which fans of such teas will probably like ($1.50 for a four-ounce package).
I wonder, why Hong Kong? With the embargo over, were they re-creating the blends using mainland teas?
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mbanu
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Sat Feb 05, 2022 1:17 pm

mbanu wrote:
Sun Jan 30, 2022 10:39 am
Some older shops still offer these blends, although they don't quite agree on a standard.

Prestogeorge mixes in some Ceylon black, presumably as a substitute for Taiwanese black? (https://prestogeorge.com/chinese-restaurant-blend-tea/)
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Alternately, it looks like it could be a copy of Wagner's "Golden Blend Mixed", a sort of hybrid between a Chinese Restaurant blend and a Green & Black Mixed blend, in that it was a mix of Ceylon black tea & Young Hyson with Keemun & Oolong. I don't know anything about the story behind this one, though, it might not be a true Chinese Restaurant blend.
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LeoFox
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Sat Feb 05, 2022 10:13 pm

So mbanu, do you drink this stuff?
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mbanu
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Sat Feb 05, 2022 10:28 pm

LeoFox wrote:
Sat Feb 05, 2022 10:13 pm
So mbanu, do you drink this stuff?
I've had the Simpson & Vail one, but it was a confusing tea for me. I don't think they sell very much of it, the tea I received was starting to go flat. It is also apparently the least representative blend, as it has no oolong in it. Of the other six places offering a Chinese Restaurant blend, two are spice shops and four are coffee shops, which are both types of places I don't usually go looking for tea. :) Even Simpson & Vail is technically a coffee-and-tea shop, although they are more famous for their teas. It seems like this style of tea was completely abandoned by tea-only shops sometime in the past. The spice shops make sense to me, as this blend originally targeted home chefs -- it's interesting that it was preserved at coffee shops, though.
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LeoFox
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Sat Feb 05, 2022 11:27 pm

mbanu wrote:
Sat Feb 05, 2022 10:28 pm
LeoFox wrote:
Sat Feb 05, 2022 10:13 pm
So mbanu, do you drink this stuff?
I've had the Simpson & Vail one, but it was a confusing tea for me. I don't think they sell very much of it, the tea I received was starting to go flat. It is also apparently the least representative blend, as it has no oolong in it. Of the other six places offering a Chinese Restaurant blend, two are spice shops and four are coffee shops, which are both types of places I don't usually go looking for tea. :) Even Simpson & Vail is technically a coffee-and-tea shop, although they are more famous for their teas. It seems like this style of tea was completely abandoned by tea-only shops sometime in the past. The spice shops make sense to me, as this blend originally targeted home chefs -- it's interesting that it was preserved at coffee shops, though.
Was it any good? It confused you?
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mbanu
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Sun Feb 06, 2022 10:15 am

LeoFox wrote:
Sat Feb 05, 2022 11:27 pm
It confused you?
It confused me because generally a tea blend's shelf-life is based on its most delicate tea. For instance, this is why "dusty" teas are considered a problem, as tea dust goes stale more quickly than whole leaf. So since green tea tends to lose its freshness more quickly than black tea, I didn't really understand what the point of blending the two together was.

It also confused me because I couldn't really imagine the drinker in my mind, as when I got it I didn't know anything about the history of Chinese Restaurant blends. (I got it as a collection of samples of all of their original blends, so I could get a feel for their style of tea.) I can sort of imagine the historical drinker now, although the modern drinker is a bit hazy -- the children of those home-chefs, maybe, with fond memories of the special occasions when a parent made cookbook Moo Shu Pork and brought out the Chinese Restaurant tea?

It reminds me a little of Hong Kong Chinese-British tea -- a Brit would not find peanut butter toast and boiled Ceylon tea with evaporated milk familiar at all, but in the process of trying, a new culture was created. :)
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LeoFox
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Sun Feb 06, 2022 10:44 am

So you were confused because because the blend seems to violate a practice for maximizing stability?

Then how old and how prevalent is this blending rule for stability?
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mbanu
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Sun Feb 06, 2022 10:50 am

LeoFox wrote:
Sun Feb 06, 2022 10:44 am
So you were confused because because the blend seems to violate a practice for maximizing stability?

Then how old and how prevalent is this blending rule for stability?
I don't know off the top of my head... The "no tea dust" rule is 19th century, I think. Clearly "Don't mix green tea with black tea" wasn't a rule then, as that was a very popular blend, at least in Germany and America. :) Maybe my understanding of mixing green and black at the time was mistaken. Export green teas from China usually got the gunpowder or chunmee treatment, which increased the shelf life. (Sencha was also treated differently, being re-fired, making it different than modern sencha.)
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mbanu
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Wed Feb 09, 2022 11:27 pm

mbanu wrote:
Sun Feb 06, 2022 10:15 am
I can sort of imagine the historical drinker now, although the modern drinker is a bit hazy -- the children of those home-chefs, maybe, with fond memories of the special occasions when a parent made cookbook Moo Shu Pork and brought out the Chinese Restaurant tea?
What the home-chef imagined it would look like when they started, courtesy of an October 1965 article in the Ladies' Home Journal. :D They don't mention tea in the article, but if it was served, it would have likely been with or after the dessert.

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mbanu
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Thu Feb 10, 2022 4:48 am

The hostess was apparently just 22 at the time of the article! Was that typical for this type of interest? Would she have been interested in tea generally, with Chinese Restaurant blends as one among many, or interested in it exclusively, as part of a larger fascination with Old-China aesthetics? If the latter, this would be a copy of the same dynamic we see with modern American pu'er fans, where there are a small number of older Americans who were interested in teas generally that moved into pu'er as part of their wanderings, and a much larger number of younger Americans who have no interest in tea generally but are very keen over pu'er in particular as part of the tea-art aesthetic. :D

Perhaps in the future, antique-shop browsers will puzzle over the old Yunnan Sourcing cakes they find tucked away in some corner in the same way that the browsers of today puzzle over the half-filled tins of Ch'a Ching, trying to understand the context that created them. :)

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mbanu
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Mon Feb 14, 2022 1:42 pm

mbanu wrote:
Sat Feb 05, 2022 12:17 pm
mbanu wrote:
Sat Jan 29, 2022 9:31 pm
Were Americans drinking "Chinese Restaurant" blends with sugar? I'm thinking the answer here is no, as they were trying to duplicate the tea they had had at Chinese restaurants to go along with their own home cooking, but I'm not sure on that.
Some Americans were adding sugar, apparently. In 1974 there was a brief review of two new Chinese Restaurant blends from Little Mandarins Foods in New York Magazine.
New York Magazine wrote:The better of these is Chinese Restaurant Tea, a combination of black and oolong teas, devised by Emily Kwoh of the Mandarin House, and made up to her order in Hong Kong. Brewed in a pot (not in a teacup as directions suggest), the result is a soothing, aromatic, sweetly scented brew that is even better with a slight touch of sugar (about a quarter teaspoon to cup, for my taste) and some lemon ($1.20 for a four-ounce package).
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This might have started with ads -- this August 1958 ad for Chun King frozen foods suggested what looks like an iced Chinese Restaurant blend with lemon as the perfect choice for a summer garden party. :)
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wave_code
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Tue Feb 15, 2022 9:44 am

mbanu wrote:
Thu Feb 10, 2022 4:48 am
The hostess was apparently just 22 at the time of the article! Was that typical for this type of interest? Would she have been interested in tea generally, with Chinese Restaurant blends as one among many, or interested in it exclusively, as part of a larger fascination with Old-China aesthetics? If the latter, this would be a copy of the same dynamic we see with modern American pu'er fans, where there are a small number of older Americans who were interested in teas generally that moved into pu'er as part of their wanderings, and a much larger number of younger Americans who have no interest in tea generally but are very keen over pu'er in particular as part of the tea-art aesthetic. :D

Image
I think you are reading waaay too much into the tea here. Tea, even the food, or basically everything here is probably incidental on its own, just part of the larger whole- entertaining with a touch of exoticism. Again you have to look at this in cultural context of the time- this woman is fulfilling an expectation, a societally imposed gender role. It is literally viewed as her job and basically sole function to look pretty, cook, and entertain. When you read these old magazined or cookbooks you find tons of obvious text that is very explicit about this- how to 'please your man' with certain meals, how to serve 'proper breakfast for your husband and children', so on. Of course plenty of people enjoy entertaining not for said purposes, but at the time and what publications like this existed for are another matter.

As for Americans adding sugar, this should come as no surprise. None of this is about replicating anything genuine, and even if it was I wouldn't be surprised if restaurants were adding sugar too in order to appeal to American tastes. They certainly weren't serving authentic Szechuan dishes, and its not like General Tso's chicken is some wildly popular dish in China. The first Chinese restaurants in Boston served "Peking Ravioli" because it was the only way to sell it to Italians, and often orders would come with loaves of white bread instead of or in addition to rice because for an Irish or Italian background family no meal would be complete without bread, despite it having absolutely nothing to do with the food. Americans love sugar, so its going to go in to the dishes a lot, and probably anything else that winds up on the table.
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mbanu
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Tue Feb 15, 2022 10:43 am

wave_code wrote:
Tue Feb 15, 2022 9:44 am
I think you are reading waaay too much into the tea here.
That could certainly be so. :D
wave_code wrote:
Tue Feb 15, 2022 9:44 am
As for Americans adding sugar, this should come as no surprise. None of this is about replicating anything genuine, and even if it was I wouldn't be surprised if restaurants were adding sugar too in order to appeal to American tastes. They certainly weren't serving authentic Szechuan dishes, and its not like General Tso's chicken is some wildly popular dish in China.
This may be true, but it's also important to recognize why this explanation is so appealing to some folks. Often when people become fascinated with another culture, they become fixated on revealing its "hidden mysteries". This was common with Orientalism, but can also be found with Anglophiles, Francophiles, and really many groups of people who are touring an area they are not from who fear they are not getting the real experience. :) Have you ever met someone like that for Germany? Perhaps they insist that there is some secret German beer that is even more authentic than the local beer that you have given them, even though there really is no such secret, that is the local beer that suits local tastes.

Like let's say that an old British planter said that Indian chai was British tea dumbed-down for Indian tastes. Some Indians would find that to be a rather arrogant statement, but an Indian Anglophile might become all the more excited because it implies that there is a secret truly British tea only available for the worthy, and that maybe they, unlike the others, could gain access to it with enough effort. In that way it is a subtle sort of marketing along the lines of Groucho Marx, "I don't want to belong to any club that would accept me as one of its members." :) Wikipedia suggests that with France this can lead to something called Paris syndrome, when the seeker goes through all the steps, completes all the tasks, awaits for the mysteries to be revealed, and well, there's nothing there to reveal -- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paris_syndrome
wave_code wrote:
Tue Feb 15, 2022 9:44 am
The first Chinese restaurants in Boston served "Peking Ravioli" because it was the only way to sell it to Italians, and often orders would come with loaves of white bread instead of or in addition to rice because for an Irish or Italian background family no meal would be complete without bread, despite it having absolutely nothing to do with the food. Americans love sugar, so its going to go in to the dishes a lot, and probably anything else that winds up on the table.
American-Chinese food is its own thing, as is American-Chinese tea. They are collaborations between the eater and the chef, the drinker and the tea-maker. In this case, it was the result of a trade embargo with mainland China and a historical love of Formosa oolong tea mixed with whatever the motivator was that made people want to do something like host a party with this type of food and drink rather than another type, which as you pointed out might be due to social pressures rather than personal interest.

Still, it is part of the history of Taiwanese oolong in America, and helps answer the question of what was happening to the remaining Taiwanese oolong as the habit of drinking it on its own faded.
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