The concept of terroir is often evoked and mused over by ardent fans of fine beverages and cuisine. In the world of scotch whisky, fierce debates ensue over which sub-region produces the best type of whisky - is it the sweet Speyside, elegant Highlands, saline Campbeltown or fiery Islays that is home to the greatest distilleries? In the world of coffee, terroir is often associated with style or flavor of what cup we ought to expect. Do we prefer the high acidity, crisp and structured coffees coming out of Ethiopia and Kenya with their high growing altitudes, or the rich and bold earthy flavors of a Sumatra/Javanese coffee with notes of wild herbs? Or we prefer the experimental attitude undertaken by coffee producers in Central America, with producers in Panama and Colombia taking different kinds of special varietals and all sorts of fancy processing methods (such as nitrogen induced anaerobic fermentation, etc.), to create funky coffees that often win world barista competitions? Most importantly, we have the wine industry in the Old World where the concept of terroir and varietal and inextricably linked. Certain soil types simply favor certain varietals, yielding their best expression. The gravelly, sandy soil of Left Bank Bordeaux yields bold Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant blends, while the clay-rich soils of Right Bank Bordeaux give Merlot-dominant blends. And let's not even go to the extent of Burgundy fanatics who would ponder all day over the angle of slopes and the direction that it faces to the morning sun that gives tiny plots of land their highly specific expressions. Over in the food industry, seasonal produce like fruits, mushrooms, oysters, the list goes on and on... we often chase after certain food produced in certain areas over others, not without an air of superiority. All of these is well documented and endlessly fascinating with the insistence that provenance, while not being the sole factor in determining expression, is certainly the first and most fundamental one indeed.
Now let's move on to tea and terroir, in particular Yunnan puerh tea. While Yunnan is perfect for growing all kinds of tea and crops (coffee plantations, wine vineyards are starting to discover that the climate of Yunnan is so favorable as well), puerh is Yunnan and cannot be called puerh if produced elsewhere. It was in the Haoji era of private production before the war in the early 20th century where the Six Famous Tea Mountains (East of the Lancang river in Xishuangbanna) were named as not only producing high quality tea, but also with distinct characteristics that deserve their own recognition. After the war, China was took over by the CCP who overturned the efforts made by such producers. Much land was left untended, some fell into neglect, and worst of all many were converted into farmlands for agriculture/mono-cropping. Whatever tea production was shifted westward to Menghai where state-owned factories starting churning out mass-produced tea with their own specific instructions. Much know-how was kept away from the public, as with the political and economic situation that China faced for decades after the war. Puerh tea was simply not something to be appreciated but consumed like any other beverage for sustenance. Only after the liberalization and opening of China in the 90s saw a renewed interest in puerh tea that resuscitated the idea of puerh tea as a fine beverage equal in importance to other kinds of tea such as Green tea and oolong tea. The 2000s+, the past 2 decades, seemed almost like a return to the Haoji era with private buyers and tea fanatics like us who gather in this forum to spread the word of puerh tea in reverence. We are willing to pay a premium for tea that is single-origin, unblended with older trees separated from younger ones, and ensuring that production methods are far and above better than what large factories churn out. New concepts emerge such as Danzhu, Gaogan, etc. With all these developments, new areas become recognized - the new famous tea mountains of Menghai (Bada, Mengsong, Nannou, Pasha, Bulang) and Jingmai, then teas from up north in Lincang (Da Xue Shan, Xigui, Nahan, Wuliang, Baiyingshan, Fengqing) and in Simao (Jinggu, Kunlushan, Kuzhushan).
My question to puerh tea lovers - what areas have you tried and what do you think are some of the notable characteristics of the area? I'd love this to be a place where we can document and discuss the teas that we have drunk, with emphasis on the particular region. Interesting facts would further help us understand this vast world of puerh tea.
Puerh tea and terroir
Let me start by painting some broad strokes about the difference between Yiwu and Menghai, or East vs West Banna tea. Having drank plenty of teas from both sides, I must say that the difference between the two regions are pretty distinct enough to warrant a categorical distinction, moreso than we focus on within Yiwu (difference between each of the 6 FTM is also apparent, but less so than comparing against Menghai). Certainly I have been deceived by teas from outside Yiwu, in particular Lincang teas, which can pass themselves off as Yiwu BUT there is one clear distinct character of Yiwu which is its milky, creamy, rice flavor that gives it a roundness that few Lincang teas possess, or at last none that I know of. Whereas a Lincang tea may be confused as a Manzhuan or Gedeng, especially aged which tends to make it difficult. While young it is much easier to tell them apart, imho.
Back to the difference between Yiwu and Menghai. I believe there are at least 2 factors that are at play. One - soil pH. Menghai soil is alkaline while Yiwu is acidic. Tea generally prefers slightly acidic soil for growth, and also higher altitude lends a certain thickness in mouthfeel. Menghai, being lower elevated than Yiwu (except Hua Zhu Liang Zi in Mengsong or LBZ which is highest in Bulang range) gives it more punch but lacks the thick texture of a Yiwu. So while a Bulang can be soft and gentle, and exhibits low notes of leather, barnyard, cloth, cardboard, it still lacks the roundness of mouthfeel in a Yiwu. Cha qi is subjective and there are an infinite number of qi depending on who you ask, but for me I feel that Yiwu gives me a relaxing, cerebral, calming, meditative, introspective qi while Menghai gives me an energetic, alert, focused but sometimes anxious or nervous energy which is why I gravitate towards Yiwu, personality wise. It's important to find the teas with qi that is compatible with one's character. Or perhaps the occasion also matters - if I want to study I drink Yiwu... if I want to play Dota and have fast reflexes I drink Menghai.
Another key difference is in annual rainfall levels between the two regions. If one pulls out a heat and rainfall map, I believe it is quite apparent that Yiwu receives much higher rain than in Menghai which is dryer. If anyone has some knowledge on whether Yiwu or Menghai producers harvest earlier, feel free to comment. Also, are there stylistic differences in shaqing because of the difference in water content? I believe that lower water content requires a faster shaqing, to cook the leaves without burning them. Perhaps this is the major difference that gives Yiwu and Menghai their respective character.
Back to the difference between Yiwu and Menghai. I believe there are at least 2 factors that are at play. One - soil pH. Menghai soil is alkaline while Yiwu is acidic. Tea generally prefers slightly acidic soil for growth, and also higher altitude lends a certain thickness in mouthfeel. Menghai, being lower elevated than Yiwu (except Hua Zhu Liang Zi in Mengsong or LBZ which is highest in Bulang range) gives it more punch but lacks the thick texture of a Yiwu. So while a Bulang can be soft and gentle, and exhibits low notes of leather, barnyard, cloth, cardboard, it still lacks the roundness of mouthfeel in a Yiwu. Cha qi is subjective and there are an infinite number of qi depending on who you ask, but for me I feel that Yiwu gives me a relaxing, cerebral, calming, meditative, introspective qi while Menghai gives me an energetic, alert, focused but sometimes anxious or nervous energy which is why I gravitate towards Yiwu, personality wise. It's important to find the teas with qi that is compatible with one's character. Or perhaps the occasion also matters - if I want to study I drink Yiwu... if I want to play Dota and have fast reflexes I drink Menghai.
Another key difference is in annual rainfall levels between the two regions. If one pulls out a heat and rainfall map, I believe it is quite apparent that Yiwu receives much higher rain than in Menghai which is dryer. If anyone has some knowledge on whether Yiwu or Menghai producers harvest earlier, feel free to comment. Also, are there stylistic differences in shaqing because of the difference in water content? I believe that lower water content requires a faster shaqing, to cook the leaves without burning them. Perhaps this is the major difference that gives Yiwu and Menghai their respective character.
Weather:Sunyata wrote: ↑Sat Jul 20, 2024 2:25 amLet me start by painting some broad strokes about the difference between Yiwu and Menghai, or East vs West Banna tea. Having drank plenty of teas from both sides, I must say that the difference between the two regions are pretty distinct enough to warrant a categorical distinction, moreso than we focus on within Yiwu (difference between each of the 6 FTM is also apparent, but less so than comparing against Menghai). Certainly I have been deceived by teas from outside Yiwu, in particular Lincang teas, which can pass themselves off as Yiwu BUT there is one clear distinct character of Yiwu which is its milky, creamy, rice flavor that gives it a roundness that few Lincang teas possess, or at last none that I know of. Whereas a Lincang tea may be confused as a Manzhuan or Gedeng, especially aged which tends to make it difficult. While young it is much easier to tell them apart, imho.
Back to the difference between Yiwu and Menghai. I believe there are at least 2 factors that are at play. One - soil pH. Menghai soil is alkaline while Yiwu is acidic. Tea generally prefers slightly acidic soil for growth, and also higher altitude lends a certain thickness in mouthfeel. Menghai, being lower elevated than Yiwu (except Hua Zhu Liang Zi in Mengsong or LBZ which is highest in Bulang range) gives it more punch but lacks the thick texture of a Yiwu. So while a Bulang can be soft and gentle, and exhibits low notes of leather, barnyard, cloth, cardboard, it still lacks the roundness of mouthfeel in a Yiwu. Cha qi is subjective and there are an infinite number of qi depending on who you ask, but for me I feel that Yiwu gives me a relaxing, cerebral, calming, meditative, introspective qi while Menghai gives me an energetic, alert, focused but sometimes anxious or nervous energy which is why I gravitate towards Yiwu, personality wise. It's important to find the teas with qi that is compatible with one's character. Or perhaps the occasion also matters - if I want to study I drink Yiwu... if I want to play Dota and have fast reflexes I drink Menghai.
Another key difference is in annual rainfall levels between the two regions. If one pulls out a heat and rainfall map, I believe it is quite apparent that Yiwu receives much higher rain than in Menghai which is dryer. If anyone has some knowledge on whether Yiwu or Menghai producers harvest earlier, feel free to comment. Also, are there stylistic differences in shaqing because of the difference in water content? I believe that lower water content requires a faster shaqing, to cook the leaves without burning them. Perhaps this is the major difference that gives Yiwu and Menghai their respective character.
The weather is kinda unstable , if we talk about annual trends ( especially the spring harvest ).
Some years are just rain , sometimes with hailstones ( like in Yiwu were falling ping-pong balls size, I think it was back in 2019 ).
Some years are dry the way that 1st harvest is very little to nothing. I'm talking about the garden generally producing around 500-700kg of tea made around 100kg in 2023 and lees than 20kg in 2024 , for example. Not only one particular tea garden but in general farmers complaining with kinda similar number differences.
That followed by torrential rain after which 2nd harvest might or might not occur. Some farmers wait till June ( summer harvest ) and saying that it's better than the spring one. I haven't done much comparing A/B test but in certain way , they might be not far from the truth as it appears to me the climate is shifting ( means the harvest time could also ) .
2022 was the rainy spring and most of the tea I've tried ( mao cha ) had just too much "shu wei" - too watery. Like some sweet taste added to the water kinda feeling. Especially Menghai teas,.
2017 was also heavy rain but not that bad, but I remember when I was learning kill green in Yiwu back then , our farmer had particular approach to the leaves on pan. From beginning , after each few flips , he pushed leaves gently towards to the pan for a second , like when you fry the steak and press it for frying it faster. He told me coz too much water in them.
If dry season , there is not much you can do about it. The leaves have , in my experience , more astringency than if weather is optimal in spring.
Some areas might be more rain or dry influenced than others each year. For example this year was dry for Menghai, but that wasn't affecting that much high altitude growing trees somewhere in Da Xue Shan forest where moisture is still in subcontinental level ( although there was also harvest decrease ).
Harvest :
Some Ye Sheng varietal are harvested already in beginning or mid February, this time and amount is also shifting / changing based on climate change trends. It appears to me that many tea factories with their own plantations will have a tendency selling June harvest as a spring harvest.
Processing:
It is a very important factor, which is entangled with terroir , in my opinion. Processing can vary from place to place not only depending on tea it self ( because different soil , climate etc. ) but also the selling concept.
Were are lots of tea tourists, the Gao Wen Sha Qing - high temp kill green , is more likely to occur there rather than traditional concept.
There are some areas where tea is not rally "suitable" for puerh because some factors ( which can also be an individual preference , that why I put suitable in " " ) , yet some farmers / producers still see better $ potential in puerh production than in other tea , so they adjusting the processing to make their puerh more appealing at least for some clientele. Longer withering and high temp kill green might occur there.
My very personal opinion ( as all written above ) is that now-days focusing on particular terroir is not only about the soil and climate , but also the processing which can even be variable from year to year and not only depending on weather ( like if some area becomes touristy now because some vloger made viral video, they might change to new concept of processing to boost the sells ).
Comparing two micro-regions in Yiwu - Tianmenshan and Baihuatan.
Over the past decade, there has been a hype for newer regions in Yiwu. Places like Guafengzhai (and by extension Lengshuihe) and Bohetang had been talked about endlessly and hence quality in these renowned areas has been in decline for several years. As a 1st tier Bohetang is unavailable in open market, getting a 2nd tier bohetang will cost at least $4/g, and even then quality will not be as good today as it was in the early 2010s. Hence, there is an incentive to explore other areas of Yiwu in search of higher quality. Naturally, tea enthusiasts turn their attention farther north to places such as Yishanmo, Xiangchunlin, Duoyishu and Tianmenshan seeking a different kind of Yiwu. And Tianmenshan, being the furthest north among them, has received alot of hype. So today I took out my Tianmenshan xiaoshu 2018. I have drank this a number of times already so I am familiar with its taste. Among all the Yiwu, Tianmenshan has the most linear and clear character. It is woodsy and dark. It's not sweet or fruity, or wild or earthy. I corroborated my finding with Yiwumountaintea's Tianmenshan sample, and contrasted it with Tongqinghe. Tongqinghe much farther south of Yiwu is more foresty and earthy. It's not woody like a Tianmenshan. We are very used to the fruity sweet Yiwus from the famous villages (Mahei, Gaoshan, Luoshuidong, Manxiu). Stretching eastward to GFZ that character is very upfront and direct. No wonder everyone is saying GFZ is best representative of this generic kind of Yiwu. As for Wangong broader region, it is very hit-or-miss with really really good stuff like Fenghuangwo, but also not very good stuff like Baichayuan... And their character is more elegant and we see a shift away from fruity sweet Yiwu towards more subtle expressions.
Next, I pulled out a Baihuatan 2022 xiaoshu, perhaps the most hyped area in South Yiwu. It is remarkable that this tea changed my impression of what South Yiwu taste is like... Just nearby is Tongqinghe, one of the earlier regions which got famous much earlier, and based on my experience it has a faster aging record becoming dark, dank, wild and forest-floor. Baihuatan, on the other hand, has this spicy florality in it which I haven't experience in any other Yiwu that I have. It is very remarkable - spicy? It doesn't resemble TQH in one bit. No forest-floor, no darkness, but very elegant with alot hiding underneath. This is a tea where I am very interested to see how it ages since it is very shy and hiding alot of florality. What I like about xiaoshu is that it is much less than half the price of a gushu from the same area but expresses the quality of that area much clearer. Paying $4/g for danzhu or gaogan Tianmenshan or Baihuatan is hard to stomach... but $1/g is certainly necessary to understand what these new hyped areas of Yiwu are. Of course "new" is relative - these regions have already been talked about in Chinese circles early 2010s but have only spilled out in the past 5-10 years. Worth the hype? Based on what I have tried, certainly so.
Over the past decade, there has been a hype for newer regions in Yiwu. Places like Guafengzhai (and by extension Lengshuihe) and Bohetang had been talked about endlessly and hence quality in these renowned areas has been in decline for several years. As a 1st tier Bohetang is unavailable in open market, getting a 2nd tier bohetang will cost at least $4/g, and even then quality will not be as good today as it was in the early 2010s. Hence, there is an incentive to explore other areas of Yiwu in search of higher quality. Naturally, tea enthusiasts turn their attention farther north to places such as Yishanmo, Xiangchunlin, Duoyishu and Tianmenshan seeking a different kind of Yiwu. And Tianmenshan, being the furthest north among them, has received alot of hype. So today I took out my Tianmenshan xiaoshu 2018. I have drank this a number of times already so I am familiar with its taste. Among all the Yiwu, Tianmenshan has the most linear and clear character. It is woodsy and dark. It's not sweet or fruity, or wild or earthy. I corroborated my finding with Yiwumountaintea's Tianmenshan sample, and contrasted it with Tongqinghe. Tongqinghe much farther south of Yiwu is more foresty and earthy. It's not woody like a Tianmenshan. We are very used to the fruity sweet Yiwus from the famous villages (Mahei, Gaoshan, Luoshuidong, Manxiu). Stretching eastward to GFZ that character is very upfront and direct. No wonder everyone is saying GFZ is best representative of this generic kind of Yiwu. As for Wangong broader region, it is very hit-or-miss with really really good stuff like Fenghuangwo, but also not very good stuff like Baichayuan... And their character is more elegant and we see a shift away from fruity sweet Yiwu towards more subtle expressions.
Next, I pulled out a Baihuatan 2022 xiaoshu, perhaps the most hyped area in South Yiwu. It is remarkable that this tea changed my impression of what South Yiwu taste is like... Just nearby is Tongqinghe, one of the earlier regions which got famous much earlier, and based on my experience it has a faster aging record becoming dark, dank, wild and forest-floor. Baihuatan, on the other hand, has this spicy florality in it which I haven't experience in any other Yiwu that I have. It is very remarkable - spicy? It doesn't resemble TQH in one bit. No forest-floor, no darkness, but very elegant with alot hiding underneath. This is a tea where I am very interested to see how it ages since it is very shy and hiding alot of florality. What I like about xiaoshu is that it is much less than half the price of a gushu from the same area but expresses the quality of that area much clearer. Paying $4/g for danzhu or gaogan Tianmenshan or Baihuatan is hard to stomach... but $1/g is certainly necessary to understand what these new hyped areas of Yiwu are. Of course "new" is relative - these regions have already been talked about in Chinese circles early 2010s but have only spilled out in the past 5-10 years. Worth the hype? Based on what I have tried, certainly so.
Baiyingshan (underrated and possibly the best of what Lincang can offer)
When we speak of Lincang, most think of Mengku/DXS (aka Bingdao character). But over the years I've never felt the area offered much interesting stuff - they're flatter than Banna teas, not necessarily are better because the AGE is not as old hence more astringency. In search of good Lincang GUSHU or old tree, regardless of terroir, has led me to northern Lincang, the highest altitude where tea can possibly grow, with perhaps the highest ancient trees density of any part... That place is Baiyingshan, where the records indicate the first transition from wild to cultivated tea trees in the puerh tea world. The age of these danzhu are older than most "gushu" Yiwu.
Unlike the lower elevation Mengku, Baiyingshan teas exhibit a high mountain, alpine character. If we think of the best high mountain taiwanese oolongs, we see that the tea soup is thick without astringency. Here there are many varietals, but two stand out - Benshan and Hei Tiao Zi. Benshan is slightly more bitter, while Hei Tiao Zi (which are very dark in appearance) is very sweet without bitterness. I have both and they tell the same story of Baiyingshan... A cooling, minty sensation that lingers. No extraneous flavors present, but very pure like drinking purified water. Is this the end game of danzhu puerh? Wu Wei Zi Wei (no flavor is the only flavor) means drinkers are going after a sensation rather than taste. The mineral after-taste is what impresses me, together with this freshness and vibrancy which no Banna tea can give.
When we speak of Lincang, most think of Mengku/DXS (aka Bingdao character). But over the years I've never felt the area offered much interesting stuff - they're flatter than Banna teas, not necessarily are better because the AGE is not as old hence more astringency. In search of good Lincang GUSHU or old tree, regardless of terroir, has led me to northern Lincang, the highest altitude where tea can possibly grow, with perhaps the highest ancient trees density of any part... That place is Baiyingshan, where the records indicate the first transition from wild to cultivated tea trees in the puerh tea world. The age of these danzhu are older than most "gushu" Yiwu.
Unlike the lower elevation Mengku, Baiyingshan teas exhibit a high mountain, alpine character. If we think of the best high mountain taiwanese oolongs, we see that the tea soup is thick without astringency. Here there are many varietals, but two stand out - Benshan and Hei Tiao Zi. Benshan is slightly more bitter, while Hei Tiao Zi (which are very dark in appearance) is very sweet without bitterness. I have both and they tell the same story of Baiyingshan... A cooling, minty sensation that lingers. No extraneous flavors present, but very pure like drinking purified water. Is this the end game of danzhu puerh? Wu Wei Zi Wei (no flavor is the only flavor) means drinkers are going after a sensation rather than taste. The mineral after-taste is what impresses me, together with this freshness and vibrancy which no Banna tea can give.
Hi Sunyata, I'm writing here because I can't send private messages.
A friend linked me to this post a while ago and I found it very interesting, wish I had the time to write my thoughts but I'm off to Asia in a couple days.
I might actually be passing from Singapore (early-mid december, though I'll be in KL a lot more).
If you're in Singapore and interested to have a tea session with another gushu lover (some of my writing about it here: https://puerh.uk/benchmark-ancient-tree/ ), please PM your contact (wechat/line/facebook/email)
best,
Paolo
(admin sorry to write here, perhaps you can delete it after he reads it if it's not appropriate?)
A friend linked me to this post a while ago and I found it very interesting, wish I had the time to write my thoughts but I'm off to Asia in a couple days.
I might actually be passing from Singapore (early-mid december, though I'll be in KL a lot more).
If you're in Singapore and interested to have a tea session with another gushu lover (some of my writing about it here: https://puerh.uk/benchmark-ancient-tree/ ), please PM your contact (wechat/line/facebook/email)
best,
Paolo
(admin sorry to write here, perhaps you can delete it after he reads it if it's not appropriate?)
I drank some Luoshuidong from 2016/17. The more Yiwu I drink, the more I realize attempting some sort of one-to-one mapping of geography and character is a futile or hopeless exercise in vain. Say, theres a famous village A with tea grown in the backyard of the village (or even right in the village itself), and forest tea that is like a 2-hour walk from the village, both teas will be sold with the same label 'A' and yet there is a world of difference in character. Even among forest tea, there will be trees in reddish soil and yellowish soil in closer proximity to each other. The tree grown in yellowish soil will in fact taste more similar to another tree grown much further away in village B, that has certain soils which are closer in composition type. We've seen the widely circulated Yiwu 3-flavor map, while useful as a guideline, becomes not very useful when one realizes that every tree and therefore either single/pure or blended tea will be different from one another.
What I can say though, is based on teas ive tried from Luoshuidong, that they are some of the most "neutral" tasting of Yiwus. A "lack" of standout character (honeyed sweetness, florality, woodsy wilderness) makes these teas appear "muted". Low-notes predominate, slight woodsy slight sweetness. But nothing that jumps out that screams Mahei, Manxiu or Gaoshanzhai.
What I can say though, is based on teas ive tried from Luoshuidong, that they are some of the most "neutral" tasting of Yiwus. A "lack" of standout character (honeyed sweetness, florality, woodsy wilderness) makes these teas appear "muted". Low-notes predominate, slight woodsy slight sweetness. But nothing that jumps out that screams Mahei, Manxiu or Gaoshanzhai.