Some musings about the state of Anhua heicha while I'm sipping on this 2021 Muyangjie heizhuan from Yimuyiyang/Qingyang/Chen Yangwen.
Anhua heicha has had a tremendous growth over the last 15 years. The total tea plantation area has grown from 85,500 mu (1 mu = 614.4 m2) in 2006 to 350,000 mu in 2020. Annual output has grown from 3900 to 75,000 tonnes in the same period. (Interestingly, "only" a threefold increase of plantation area but an 18-fold increase of output...). And the annual revenue of the industry rose from less than 200 million CNY in 2006 to more than 22 billion CNY by 2020, a 109-fold increase.
This same period has seen improvements in processing techniques and a big increase in both premium and "premium" tea material being used. Gimmicks abound too, though I would say this is a bigger problem in the fuzhuan genre (where a certain segment of the market is all about covering questionable stuff with ever-increasing amounts of jinhua) than it is in other types on Anhua heicha.
The "border area tea" part of the production is certainly no longer dominant. The biggest factories dutifully keep churning out their "tezhi" productions, but this is not where the growth has been happening.
While the industry overall has turned more premium, it feels to me like there is more "unclean" (or even doped, in reference to the recent discussion here) stuff hitting the market too. I can't recall a single <2010 Anhua heicha leaving me with a bad body feeling or having "off" flavors (even the crudest border area intended productions of earlier teems feel remarkably clean to me), but I certainly have had that with some more recent ones. Types of reactions that I doubt are due to the aging factor.
In any case, I wonder Anhua heicha will go much further or if it has already reached a kind of peak. While Anhua is supposedly now the county in China with the highest tea tax revenue (which seems to me a kind of odd thing to highlight), it doesn't seem to be nowhere near as well known as say puer, longjing or yancha outside of Hunan. Even within the world of heicha (excluding puer from that category from a moment), I'd think both liubao and liuan were far better known.
Anyways, back to the tea. I haven't had anything from Chen Yangwen I don't like, and this heizhuan is no exception. As with all of his teas, the mouthfeel and huigan are very prominent. It has a clean minerality taste that only strengthens through the first 5-6 steeps. Good endurance. Likely to improve in a few years time, once the (light) smoke has settled.
On par with the Yunshang Yunyin heizhuans, I'd say.
