"Zairai" or seed propagated sencha

Non-oxidized tea
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LeoFox
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Wed Jul 07, 2021 10:53 am

The attitudes towards "zairai" or seed propagated sencha seem very polarized. Whether people believe zairai to be superior or inferior tea, they generally agree that zairai is very different from the typical clonal sencha.

Much of this polarization may be attributed to lack of historical understanding, as detailed below by @Baisao:
viewtopic.php?p=37780#p37780

Florent gives a nice and sober description from a technical standpoint:

https://japaneseteasommelier.wordpress. ... megashima/
Let us first recall what the term “zairai-shu” or “mishō-zairai-shu” means in Japanese. This is what can be called an indigenous variety (or native variety). In short, this type of tea tree is opposed to cultivars (or varietal). A cultivar is obtained by selection (and, most often, crossbreeding), then multiplied by cuttings. In short, all the tea plants of the same cultivar are genetically identical. Conversely, a plantation of native varieties “zairai” is obtained by seeds, “zairai” tea trees are all genetically different. They do not have the same characteristics, neither aromatics nor resistance to diseases and climatic conditions. Moreover, they do not sprout according to the same timing. They give a non-homogeneous harvest, with leaves still very small and others already too hard, which makes it difficult to roll and dry, and whose aromas will not be stable.
With zairai’s raw tea (aracha : unsorted tea, without final roasting), finishing is also an important problem: there is a lack of uniformity and contains a lot of very large leaves (atama) that cannot be integrated into the finished tea. The sort causes a huge loss (more than 20%, against less than 10 for a quality sencha with a cultivar), and the choice is how and to what extent we cut the large leaves to integrate into the final tea.
Tillerman has a more critical perspective, though more from the taiwanese perspective, and maybe more about oolong:
https://tillermantea.net/2017/04/seed-vs-cuttings/

Briefly, the main issues or challenges for zairai today seem to be:
  • Multi-level heterogeneity from highly variable genetics, unsynchronized leaf growth, and difficulties of the sorting machines to evenly sort the non-uniform material
  • Lack of clonal selection efforts to optimize taste

  • Lack of market in Japan where optimal homogeneity with narrow sensory profiles are prized. This reduces incentive for farmers to even try to make good tea from the materials - resulting in poor processing and maybe suboptimal harvest times
  • Too much magical marketing attracting mystical tea cult types
@Baisao posted some nice information as well here:

viewtopic.php?p=19966#p19966

Now what do the zairai aficionados say?
  • Zairai can have less bitterness and astringency if from a pre assamica hybridization cultivar. Therefore they can be pushed with boiling water to extract the whole polyphenol profile.
  • Some complain zairai lacks any immediate and obvious taste that has been selected for..in particular umami. This can be a good thing for people who find umami to be distracting or...filthy - considering umami scales with fertilizer use.
  • Zairai can have stronger aromatics and mineral after taste. This is controversial, and is what Hojo likes to argue. He claims this can be attributed to the deep taproot of the seed grown bush. Many people disagree.
    https://hojotea.com/en/posts-233/
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Personally, I find the quality of zairai can be quite variable - and maybe more dependent on the curating abilities and taste of the vendor.


For example, the one offered by o-cha last year was very flat brewed in cooler water, and very astringent and bitter when brewed in hotter water. In contrast, the zairai offered by hojo is consistently floral and herbal - beautiful to some, but maybe lacking for umami obsessives. The key is to try from several different vendors. I list some in the next post.
Last edited by LeoFox on Thu Jul 08, 2021 5:40 am, edited 13 times in total.
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Wed Jul 07, 2021 10:54 am

Hojo:
https://hojotea.com/categ_e/gree.htm

Posts about his teas:
viewtopic.php?p=5751#p5751
viewtopic.php?p=35724#p35724
viewtopic.php?p=32829#p32829
viewtopic.php?p=35159#p35159

Tea crane:
https://www.the-tea-crane.com/product-tag/sencha/

Thes du japon:
https://www.thes-du-japon.com/index.php ... th=116_172

Posts about his teas:
viewtopic.php?p=15391#p15391

Anmo Art Cha:
https://anmo-art-cha.com/collections/ja ... maryokucha
https://anmo-art-cha.com/collections/ja ... temple-tea

Posts about her teas:
viewtopic.php?f=11&t=11&p=37759&hilit=Anmo#p37759

viewtopic.php?p=37555#p37555

Tokaseisei
https://tokaseisei.com/en
It is clear that many enjoy zairai, and appreciate their qualities, despite the naysayers.

To get the most out of this tea, it is important to brew with high temperature. A good zairai should tolerate the off boiling infusions without becoming horribly bitter and astringent.

Indeed, historically, the original sencha, which was zairai, was simmered briefly as part of its preparation. "Sencha" literally means boiled tea, as detailed by @Baisao here:

viewtopic.php?p=37784#p37784

viewtopic.php?p=37808#p37808

The simmering tea preparation was originally popularised by the historical Baisao whose caricature is shown below.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baisao
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It is interesting that Akira Hojo also advocates boiling water brewing for both gyokuro and sencha. Many of his Japanese greens are zairai - and most of them are naturally farmed with an extended withering step, which he believes is more aligned to pre-industrial practices since it would not have been possible to kill green as fast in the past.

If you look at books and online information to learn how to brew Gyokuro, most of information suggest you to cool down the boiling water to about 50-60°C, and then slowly infuse the tea for several minutes. The purpose of this brewing method is to extract theanine, which is an umami ingredient, while suppressing the extraction of polyphenols and caffeine. Gyokuro brewed in this way taste like soup stock, it gives plenty of umami. I do not deny this brewing method, but personally, I think that the taste of gyokuro, if it is full of umami, this taste is a little heavy to enjoy it every day.

Therefore, I would like to propose a method of brewing Gyokuro with boiling water. I use high temperature in order to efficiently extract polyphenols and flavour components. As a result, it gives a refreshing taste, and you can enjoy a sweet and milky scent with a floral undertone. Its floral scent reminiscent of high-quality Taiwanese Jin Xuan oolong tea, a typical characteristic of tea from high-altitude tea gardens. You may wonder if the taste is bitter if to brew Gyokuro with boiling water? Please try it. It’s surprisingly not bitter.

1. Preheat the Kyusu (tea pot) with boiling water for 10 seconds
2. Add 3g-5g of tea leaves
3. Preheat the tea leaves – pour in boiling water and pour it out. This is just to warm up the tea leaves and get it ready for the brewing
4. 1st Brewing: Pour in boiling water, and infuse tea for 5-10 seconds
5. 2nd Brewing: Pour in boiling water, and infuse tea for a few seconds
6. 3rd Brewing: Pour in boiling water, and infuse tea for a few seconds

A simpler method of brewing with a large Teapot (about 300 ml)

1.Preheat the Kyusu (tea pot) with boiling water for 10 seconds
2.Put about 3 to 5g of tea leaves
3.For 1st brewing: brew for 40 to 60 seconds in boiling water (Adjust the brewing time and concentration according to your taste and the size of the tea pot.)
4. For 2nd brewing onwards: pour in boiling water and brew for less than a few seconds
.
https://hojotea.com/en/posts-246/

Talking about brewing Japanese green tea, many people generally has accepted that it should be brewed at lower temperature as it was always emphasized in most of the internet media and books regarding tea topics. Many resources explain that sencha has to be brewed at 70-80 degree C. Nevertheless, I personally prefer to use boiling water for brewing my favourite sencha.


On the other hand, the naturally farmed tea contains much more poly phenols as compared to the ordinary tea. In addition, the tealeaf of naturally farmed tea is not bitter, even if we chew the raw tealeaf we can hardly taste the bitterness. For the naturally farmed tea, it is highly recommended to use boiling water so as to extract more poly phenols. In order to maintain the freshness of the brewed leaf, we can brew tea at higher temperature for a shorter time, such as 100 degree C for 10 seconds instead of brewing at 60-80 degree C for 1 minute, unless you prefer less flavour and thin taste.
https://hojotea.com/en/posts-104/
Last edited by LeoFox on Sun Oct 10, 2021 6:43 am, edited 14 times in total.
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Wed Jul 07, 2021 10:55 am

To begin this thread on a high note, I want to report on a particularly good zairai from anmo art cha: "shikoku temple tea"

https://anmo-art-cha.com/collections/ja ... temple-tea

Based on some insider information, this is tea from old bushes in the temple of Tsurugi San on Shikoku. The aracha is made by the monks with full hand processing. The aracha is then stored somewhat casually in the temple until a professional tea maker becomes available to finish the tea by executing the final sorting and firing. Based on this information, it is possible this tea has undergone some extra oxidation.

The leaves are a bit fragmented. Based on the first post above, it is possible that the large leaves were chopped down in order to make the sorting easier. The aroma is very strong: floral and sugary sweet:
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I brewed 4g in my 180 mL mayake sou pot using off boiling water. Infusion times were:
50s/ 15s / 60s / 90s / 2min30s / 3min30s / 6 min / 12 min / 18 min / ate the leaves

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The infusion is highly aromatic - with the aroma increasing in power as steeps progressed. In the later steeps, I felt bubbles of aroma popping from my throat into the back of my nose and then coming out in the front! The only other time I experienced this was with dan cong.

The flavor is something I have not experienced before from a tea: very sweet pastry - like ginger cookies doused with some orange oil! There is no seaweed umami. There is very little grassiness. As steeps progressed past the 5th infusion this aspect of the tea softened.

The mouthfeel is very thick and smooth. The mouth and throat are coated with the tea immediately, which releases over time a very complex aftertaste of mushroom savoriness, confectionery sweetness and some herbs that includes a very refreshing mintiness.

The leaves themselves, even after this many steeps, were very sweet to eat.

I felt very calm after drinking the tea.

Problems?
There is astringency that builds up in the stomach. Don't drink without a meal like I did!

It seems to lack a green freshness that some treasure; others don't.

Overall, this is a great after dinner tea: a sweet dessert like brew to complete a day.
Last edited by LeoFox on Wed Jul 07, 2021 6:40 pm, edited 8 times in total.
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pedant
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Wed Jul 07, 2021 12:20 pm

nice topic review, thanks!
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Victoria
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Wed Jul 07, 2021 1:52 pm

Nice topic Leo. Unfortunately, I’ve had some not so memorable zairia teas, fewer good ones, hit or miss depending on plant and producer. Enjoyed revisiting Tillerman’s article. He’s a good writer.
Is this whole debate not just arguing about the number of angels dancing on the head of a pin? In many respects yes, it is. Until we come back to note that the “seed is best” position was being espoused by a respected rising star in the industry.
Living Tea is now in Colorado. I had a green tea from Colin Hudon a few years ago, a MiXian (from “old growth trees”), and it was excellent. My notes indicated “effervescent, high mineral content, wet leaf stone fruit aroma, sweet, rich and spicy.” I forgot he prefers ‘seed grown’ teas.
Taste is the key. We find teas, we enjoy them and then, only if so motivated, we work backwards to find out how they are produced and grown. We ought never discount any tea, a priori. Whether produced by seed or not.
Hear, hear.
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Bok
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Wed Jul 07, 2021 6:49 pm

Not surprising though, that average experience with this kind of teas will be negative.

Firstly, due to aforementioned lack of incentive to make such teas, and among those to find a really good one, and then one that makes it to a Western facing vendor… all that to be possibly met by consumers who are also not expecting what they are getting as it’s so unusual and not for everyone :)

For the average Oolong loving tea friend it’s the welcome drinkable tea from Japan for a change : - )
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Baisao
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Wed Jul 07, 2021 7:14 pm

This is a well written introduction to zairai, @LeoFox. Thank you!

I think context is important to consider for people exploring zairai teas lest people compare it to something it is not.

What we call zairai appears to be very close to what people called sencha prior to modernization via selective breeding and vegetative propagation.

This is to say that modern (clonal) sencha is very different than zairai. I posit that they are now so different that neither should be compared against the other, just as we wouldn’t compare sencha to bancha except in the broadest ways.

While zairai may be listed as the source material for a type of sencha, I think this confuses matters. It’s a pity that clonal sencha was not christened with a new name to separate it from seed grown sencha. They are very different teas despite their similarity in shape and processing.

Sellers listing zairai as the source material for a sencha are apt to confuse buyers who may be unaware of the tea’s historical context and modern sencha’s divergence from historical sencha. It might be best if zairai isn’t referred to as a sencha or type of sencha, but simply as “zairai”.

I suppose zairai is no different from so many other teas: while most are ho-hum, we will occasionally find one that is a shining star.
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Bok
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Wed Jul 07, 2021 8:07 pm

@LeoFox @Baisao, thanks to all of you, this turns into quite the fascinating subject!

It seems to make perfect sense then that I used Chinese style and sized Tokoname, as that is what would have been used back then when this kind of tea was still the norm.
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Wed Jul 07, 2021 11:18 pm

Bok wrote:
Wed Jul 07, 2021 8:07 pm
LeoFox Baisao, thanks to all of you, this turns into quite the fascinating subject!

It seems to make perfect sense then that I used Chinese style and sized Tokoname, as that is what would have been used back then when this kind of tea was still the norm.
I think that’s insightful, @Bok. Those kyusu from the 1920s and older were meant for hotter water and a different method of brewing. I’m sure you’ve noticed that some of the older kyusu were meant to be placed on a ryoro to simmer the tea. Sencha, after all, means “simmered tea”.

I am uncertain if simmered tea was happening in China concurrently (my guess is that it wasn’t common) but we know that Chinese tea was being brought to Japan by literati in southern Japan and monks in the Ōbaku sect of Zen Buddhism in the early 1700s.

(There was quite a row between the Ōbaku and Sōtō/Rinzai sects because of tea. The former drank Chinese-style tea and the latter drank matcha and felt that Chinese-style tea was crass!)

This new tea needed new brewing vessels. This is one of the reasons that you get these Yixing-style kyusu. Another reason is that Japanese literati we’re obsessed with Chinese arts. This obsession was part sincere admiration and part subversion against the sakoku of the Tokugawa shogunate.

It’s a fascinating intersection of tea and culture. I wish I had been around to watch these changes take place.
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Bok
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Wed Jul 07, 2021 11:57 pm

Baisao wrote:
Wed Jul 07, 2021 11:18 pm

(There was quite a row between the Ōbaku and Sōtō/Rinzai sects because of tea. The former drank Chinese-style tea and the latter drank matcha and felt that Chinese-style tea was crass!)
All the while forgetting or in ignorance of the Chinese bringing over matcha tea preparation among many other things like clothing and architecture style dynasties before that, haha

Guess cultural appropriation has and always will be a natural thing to happen -unless we all become hermits.
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Thu Jul 08, 2021 12:13 am

Bok wrote:
Wed Jul 07, 2021 11:57 pm
Baisao wrote:
Wed Jul 07, 2021 11:18 pm

(There was quite a row between the Ōbaku and Sōtō/Rinzai sects because of tea. The former drank Chinese-style tea and the latter drank matcha and felt that Chinese-style tea was crass!)
All the while forgetting or in ignorance of the Chinese bringing over matcha tea preparation among many other things like clothing and architecture style dynasties before that, haha

Guess cultural appropriation has and always will be a natural thing to happen -unless we all become hermits.
Human behavior never changes hahaha
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Thu Jul 08, 2021 3:08 am

really interesting, thanks everyone for all of the info here. I drink greens once in a blue moon, specifically sencha even less, but the temple tea sounds really tasty and unique - @LeoFox and @Bok you managed to pique my interest in a green now!
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LeoFox
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Thu Jul 08, 2021 7:39 am

Thank you all for enriching this thread! I will keep updating my first two posts based on the discussion!

Btw, @wave_code this is a great time to buy from ANMO as they have free shipping and 10% off though delayed shipping until august. I think this is one of the few times they offer a discount.
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Thu Jul 08, 2021 8:18 am

@LeoFox great pic of Baisao! There is one Japanese tea guy who is recreating this kind of walk around with a pushcart and make tea for people outside thing as on that painting. He’s got an IG account need to look it up.
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Thu Jul 08, 2021 9:40 am

Sencha, after all, means “simmered tea”.
Did not know that.
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